No-poo Jillipoo

But wait! There's another sale!

2009-12-27T20:54:00.001-08:00

I know this is starting to look like a blog solely devoted to Curl Junkie, but I learned about this sale today and wanted to make sure you all heard about it. Now through Dec. 31st, 2009 (11:59pm EST), Curl Junkie is offering 20% off your order of $50 or more! Just type in the code "HAPPY1" at checkout.

Curl Junkie Giveaway Winners!

2009-12-19T12:20:00.001-08:00

Wanda and DEL are the winners of the Curl Junkie giveaway I announced last week. Wanda and DEL, I cannot access your emails through your profiles on blogger, so could you get in touch with me, please, at sagevivant at yahoo.com?

The selection process here was highly subjective: Wanda's comment made me laugh, and unbeknownst to DEL, I am a Jim Croce fan and loved that she wrote lyrics to one of his songs. See what I mean? Very subjective.

Congratulations to DEL and Wanda! And thank you, everyone, for singing Marsha's and Curl Junkie's praises. It is truly a great product line from a woman committed to quality hair care.

Is the CG Emperor naked?

2009-12-13T19:18:00.000-08:00

Since going CG and visiting the discussion boards at NC.com, I've heard over and over how using the right products will bring moisture to your hair and restore its "health." Testimonial after testimonial repeat the same messages:

"My hair is not nearly as frizzy as it used to be."

"My hair curls so much more now than it did."

"My hair is so much smoother now."

I don't doubt that people are seeing a difference but I think we need to look a little more closely at what we're comparing.

Some people come to CG with very damaged hair. Maybe they've been flat-ironing for years and/or using any assortment of chemical treatments that have wreaked serious havoc on their defenseless tresses. When they start CG and give those things up, when the new hair grows in, of course it feels and behaves better. CG won't fix what's damaged but it will help the new growth look better.

But what about people whose hair was not damaged prior to CG? What can they expect? This is the point on which I'm still not clear. I want to believe the folks who sing CG's praises -- the ones who say that even without product, their hair looks and feels better. They indicate that months or years of CG care and attention (and some even say a few days or weeks) has done them so much good that even without using any product (beyond conditioner), they see a noticeable difference in their hair.

I want to be one of these people. But I have to confess that I am not.

My hair looks fabulous compared to how it looked a few years ago. I like it most days. But if I didn't use gel or curl creme or my all-time-favorite, Kinky Curly Curling Custard, I can tell you right now that my hair would look and behave exactly as it did prior to my going CG. I don't see any real improvement in its natural state.

Has anybody else had this experience or are all of you blessed with visibly better hair since going CG? Don't get me wrong: I am NOT going to stop following the CG regimen I've created for myself but my point is simply this: the conditioner has done a world of good, yes, but without the styling products, I wouldn't have clumpy curls and I would have frizz.

How about you?

Curl Junkie Giveaway!

2009-12-10T19:58:00.000-08:00

When Marsha at Curl Junkie puts on her thinking cap, new and improved products are sure to follow. Over the past few months, she created FIVE new concoctions that already have the curly community buzzing. (I haven't tried them yet, but you can bet I will soon.) I love the way Marsha runs her business but mostly I love how her passion is reflected through product innovation. Her products are unlike any others, and I swear this woman's brain NEVER stops thinking about ingredient combinations!

In case you haven't been apprised of the new products, here are the official descriptions:

Beauticurls Daily Conditioner - a lightweight instant conditioner/detangler that is perfect for everyday use for all hair types.

Beauticurls Leave-in Conditioner - The companion to the daily conditioner, this is an emollient rich, yet lightweight, detangling, and glycerin-free leave-in.

Curl Assurance Smoothing Conditioner - Got Frizz? This is the conditioner for you. It is perfect for giving you daily moisture with just the right amount of frizz control. This will come in a 12 oz. size!

Curl Fix - Intense Hair Treatment - This is a wonderfully restoring deep treatment that is rich in proteins and amino acids to help your damaged/dry tresses. This is a well balanced treatment that does not leave your hair hard or dry. It can also be used in place of a leave-in as an all-day hair treatment. Wonderful for fine-haired curls as well!

Curls in a Bottle - Curl Styling Solution - This product is all you need to get your curls looking right. Perfect for all hair types especially fine hair, this hair styling liquid gel has a flexible, not hard, hold and due to it’s lightweight conditioners, it won’t dry out your hair. Works well with leave-ins and other styling products and adds great shine and bounce to curls! This also comes in a 12 oz. size!

So, did you just have a brain freeze when you read all that? Yeah, me too. I wanted them all and couldn't decide what to try. But you know what? Decision-making just got easier because if you post a comment and state why you love Curl Junkie, I will read them all, choose the two best comments (maybe I'll go with heartfelt, maybe wickedly amusing, maybe scientifically accurate -- there's no telling, really), and GIVE AWAY ONE CURLS IN A BOTTLE and ONE CURL FIX!

Don't let this chance slip away! You have until December 18 to tell this blog what's so great about Curl Junkie -- and possibly win some free product if your comment curls my toes.

How can a product review be useful to you?

2009-12-07T21:03:00.000-08:00

Have you ever purchased a product because you read a good review of it? Have you ever had the same experience with it as the reviewer?

If my own experience is any guide, you answered "yes" to the first question and "hardly ever" to the second. So what does this mean? Is there something wrong with your (and my) hair? Are these product reviewers lying? Did we misunderstand the reviews?

Except for reviews that are written by shills for a given company, the answer to all of those questions is "no." But that takes us back to the original questions of why it's so rare to have the same experience with a product as somebody else.

You know why there are so many products out there? Because there's so much variation in hair! There's porosity, texture, volume, and elasticity to consider. And not only is there variation among heads but there's the mineral content of the water you use, the temperature and dew point where you live, the other products you might also be using in your hair, how badly your hair needs to be cut, your diet, your stress level, and even your hormonal activity.

A product review can only be helpful if the reviewer has a head of hair similar to yours and lives in conditions that approximate your own. What are the odds of that? I don't know. I flunked math in school because I preferred English.

I see blogs dedicated to reviewing products and to be honest, I rarely read them. They are well-intentioned and I'm sure the reviewer feels she's rendering a service, but without knowing any of the variables I listed above and without knowing how much product the reviewer used, the review is pretty worthless to me.

Reviews also can be helpful, though, if the reviewer compares the product to another product. Then you have some frame of reference, especially if you've used either product. When a reviewer has reviewed many products and can compare and contrast, you can start to get a feel for what her hair is like -- and how it differs from or is similar to yours. In my case, my hair tends to be pretty sensitive to humectants. I limit them and avoid products that have a lot of them high up on the ingredient list. If a reviewer gives a thumbs up to products that are humectant-heavy, I know that her hair is very different from mine and I won't pay too much attention to what she says because we're comparing apples and oranges. It doesn't mean she's a bad reviewer or that the product is bad (or good) -- it just means that the combination of ingredients in that product is better suited to her hair than to mine.

But wait, you might be saying. Wouldn't you be able to figure most of this out just by reading the ingredient list?

Yep. And that's why I think product reviews are of limited value. Read the ingredient labels for yourself and you'll be able to make your own determination about what will work for you. Even this method isn't foolproof obviously, because although we know what's in a product, we never know how much of each ingredient is in it. That's where experimentation comes in, and only you can do that for yourself.

If you've found a product reviewer who seems to like the same products you do, you are one lucky curly head. But for the rest of us, the only reliable way to know whether a bottle or tube or jar contains our holy grail is to read the label and/or try it ourselves.

And then, of course, you can write your own product review, if you like.

Ready, Set, SHOP

2009-11-27T07:20:00.000-08:00

Holy Curmoly, the number of sales today is dizzying. I'm going to try to group them all in one post for your spending convenience:

Curl Junkie: Five (!) new products being released today! Woo hoo! And to top it off, on Black Friday only, they are offering 10% off your order of $50 or more (use the Code “NEWSTUFF” at checkout). They are putting a few products on 50% off sale!

Komaza Care: They're giving 15% off everything you buy between November 26 and 29! Just be sure to enter the word Thanksgiving as the coupon code during checkout to take advantage of your 15% discount.

Curl Mart: They're cleaning house over there to make room for new products. So grab your favorites while you can! Get 30% off 26 brands they carry -- for example, Wen, AG and Curl Junkie-- only while supplies last.

Sally Beauty Supply: They are offering a number of promotions for the holiday season that give you two products for the price of one, including free dryers, curling irons and flat irons. (This means one for you, one for somebody else. See how that works?)

Donna Marie: Get 20% off everything -- but only on Black Friday. The secret code is DMBLACKFRIDAY.

Have fun!

I heart Perry Romanowski

2009-11-20T20:58:00.000-08:00

No, he's not famous (although see what you get when you Google "most famous cosmetic chemist") but I just love Perry Romanowski. He's been part of a few roundtables here at No-Poo Jillipoo not only because he knows his stuff but because he is a quirky, funny, smart, and gracious person (for instance, he always participates in my roundtables rather than saying something like "Who the heck are you, No-Poo? I work with dimethicone, dammit, and I have no time for your foolishness!"). He contributes to several blogs (Beauty Brains and Chemists Corner and perhaps others with equally alliterative names) and recently, he gave a presentation on "Skepticism and the Cosmetics Industry" in Chicago at the Midwest Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

In this presentation, he addressed what he calls the five most popular beauty myths. And here they are:

- Natural is safer
- Cosmetics are toxic
- More expensive is better
- Cosmetic woo works
- Pantene is plastic

Could a perspective be any simpler? Or for that matter, funnier? (And no, I'm not entirely sure what "cosmetic woo" is, either, but I'm sure that if I'd been at the event rather than ogling his PowerPoint presentation online, I'd have been utterly titillated by his definition.)

I guess another reason I love Perry is because his observations about the beauty industry are not influenced by his "feelings" or superficial evidence or anything other than straight-up science. I adore the no-bullshit insights. He's my kinda beauty blogger. And as long as he is willing, I'm going to keep on including him in my roundtables. Mwah, Perry!

Curl Mart is having a sale!

2009-11-17T07:01:00.000-08:00

I haven't seen this much product on sale at Curl Mart ever! You might want to check it out. I just ordered the Batia and Aleeza conditioner. It's normally more money than I like to spend ($17.95) but now it's on sale for $12.56. Even with the $8 shipping, I feel like that's a deal, especially since I have never seen this line in a store. Have fun!

Always learning

2009-11-11T11:51:00.000-08:00

On Saturday, I was part of a group of curlies who paid to fly Tiffany Anderson Taylor out to San Francisco (well, Fremont, actually) so she could cut out hair. I've gotten to know Tiffany through various means for the past year or two, and even helped copyedit her e-book, Live Curly Live Free. (If you don't have the book, by the way, I strongly urge you to purchase it. It provides more help and information than any book ever written on the topic of curls. And I am not exaggerating.) Here is a photo of Tiffany that I took at the event and as always happens with my stupid iPhone camera, you cannot see curls!

Tiffany cut hair all day Saturday and all day Sunday. It's clear that she thoroughly enjoys her work! Everybody left looking better than when they arrived. Except, strangely enough, me!

I am fortunate to have an outstanding hair stylist here in San Francisco: Bebe of Sassy Salon. She does not cut my hair according to the Deva method. She gives me a traditional, layered cut that takes my curls into account. I have never had a bad haircut from her. When I arrived at my appointment with Tiffany, I knew my hair already looked ... well ... fabulous. (I've been using Mop Top Daily Conditioner, Karen's Body Beautiful Hair Nectar as leave-in, and a combination of KCCC and Fuzzy Duck gel as my styler -- this combo has yet to let me down!)

Tiffany asked me why I wanted anything done to my hair. She said she didn't think she could improve on it. And really, I kind of agreed but thought I kind of needed a trim so why not let her do it?

So, Tiffany sat me down and inquired about what products I used, what my routine was, and what I wanted from the haircut she would give me. All very good questions and ones that every stylist ought to ask their clients.

She cut very little, which is what I wanted. She gave me a tip or two to relay to my stylist, but insisted that my cut was already just great. (I can't wait to tell Bebe that her work was so appreciated!) Now that a few days have passed, I don't see much difference in the way my hair falls, and actually, that's fine by me.

Then came the wet-down and product application. And this is where I started to learn one major lesson: not everybody follows the same routine! Tiffany used Aquage conditioner and gel on me (I preferred that to the Deva products she had available). Both the conditioner and gel contained protein, so that was good by me. But from this point forward, I think things started to go awry for me.

Through no fault of Tiffany's, my styling and drying sequence contrasted fairly sharply with what I do at home. But I wanted to stay open to new techniques, so I went along.

1. She applied the gel to sopping wet hair. I don't do this. I squeeze out as much moisture as possible and then apply gel. If I don't do this, my hair is weighed down by the water, takes forever to dry, and does not encourage curl.
2. She clipped my hair with metal clips. My experience with metal clips has been abysmal, but the ones she used were of better quality and they actually did work well. (I use these plastic ones and love them because they hold better and don't get tangled in my hair like the metal ones generally do.)
3. She put me out to air-dry before diffusing. I generally diffuse right away to get some volume and then I air dry.
4. She used the Deva Fuser dryer. She likes it but I can honestly say that for all the curlies I saw that day, all of them had their curls broken up and slightly frizzed because of this dryer. It is just god-awful and I must be honest about that. At least two of us who had terrific clumpy curls when we arrived, left with no clumps after the Deva Fuser was used on us. Maybe it's a case of operator error with this thing, because Tiffany did not personally blow-dry most of us -- a curly "helper" did. In my case, I used it on myself and hated it so much that I asked the person whose home we were at if I could use her blow-dryer and diffuser. Marginally better.

After two hours, I couldn't take it anymore and scrunched out the crunch. It looked terrible. Tiffany saw my disappointment and offered to do me all over again. We did that and this time, we followed a routine that more closely resembled my own. Although my results were better, they were still not great.

I really want to emphasize that none of this is Tiffany's fault. She didn't do anything wrong, and she even asked all of us to bring our favorite products if we wanted her to use them. I should have brought my KCCC!

I learned that there is simply no right or wrong way to care for curly hair. Everybody's hair is different, and more important, everybody's preferences for the end result are different. Some people don't want clumpy curls. I do, and I want them by the truckload! Some people don't want volume. I do. Some people can't stand a really wet head and I am one of them. My routine has been adapted to my preferences. And it works for me, but it may not work for everyone. Tiffany's routine may work for some clients but it did not work for me.

So, next time you're trying to follow a routine that's been posted somewhere on the Internet yet you aren't getting the results you want ... TRY SOMETHING ELSE. Pay attention to your hair and don't be afraid to alter your routine or your products to honor your instincts.

The right way to care for curly hair is whatever way works for you.

Are you doing CG correctly?

2009-10-31T13:17:00.000-07:00

Once upon a time, a hair stylist wrote a book about how to care for curly hair. The information and guidance in the book were based mostly on her experiences with her own as well as her clients' hair. The book helped a lot of curlies, including me, and I'm forever grateful to have found it.

But let's be clear, people. It is a very big mistake to regard this book as some kind of bible.

I say this because it seems that a lot of people go to great pains to "get CG right." They agonize over whether a product is CG, ask as many CG followers as they can about the "correct" way to apply product, and they think that if they make a mistake, it's like being an alcoholic who takes a drink--and that they must "start over" again.

My view is that it's time to relax about being CG.

What is the CG method?

If you were to distill the Curly Girl book down into a few sentences (and believe me, you can), here are its tenets:
1. Avoid sulfates
2. Avoid silicones
3. Treat curly hair gently (no brushes, no rough towels, no blow-dryers)
4. Gel is your friend
5. A good conditioner contains a blend of moisturizers, protein, emollients, and humectants
5. Don't touch your hair before it's completely dry

There's also a bunch of silliness about "typing" one's hair, none of which is terribly helpful but a delightful little exercise that helps give the book some substance and allows the author to use celebrity photos to demonstrate her points. People love celebrities. So do publishers. Celebrities help make everything sell better.

The book asserts that silicones coat the hair and starve it of moisture. It goes on to say that shampoo (at least the kind that contains sulfates, which is pretty much all that existed when the author wrote the book) is what's needed to remove the silicones, but the sulfates strip hair of its natural moisture, thereby forcing us all to reach for silicones to give us the shine we crave. And hence, a heinous cycle of interdependency ensues.

And that, along with the hair typing and a plethora of curly confessions, is the sum total of the book.

Points of confusion

Sulfates. Not all of these are created equal. What's more, not all shampoos have the same amount of them. And finally, there's not a single silicone in existence that requires the use of sulfates to remove it. Surfactants, no sulfates, are what's required to remove silicones (and most products in general). (So-called harsher sulfates include sodium laurel sulfate, sodium, laureth sulfate, and ammonium laurel sulfate. Milder surfactants that will do the job for you include sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, and sodium cocoyl isethionate. Still milder are non-sulfate anionic surfactants, including sodium laurel sulfate, sodium, laureth sulfate, and ammonium laurel sulfate. Least harsh are the amphoteric surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, and sodium cocoyl isethionate.)

Silicones. These come in many guises and have many names. Some adhere to hair (dimethicone), some evaporate in a few hours (cyclomethicone), and others are extremely mild (dimethicone copolyol). Not all of them evil. In fact, many would argue that none of them are. In 2009, we have many more cleansing options than were available in 2002 when Curly Girl was written. There is no reason to be draconian in your avoidance of any ingredient ending in "cone" unless you have discovered that your hair really despises all silicones. And even if it does hate silicones, maybe if you found a way to remove them that your hair doesn't hate, that peaceful coexistence of cleansing and silicone could work for you. You never know unless you try.

Gel. Have you ever tried using the amount of gel recommended in the book? Fuggedabowdit. I use about five times as much gel as the book would have me using. It took me a few months to figure out that the quantities (of conditioner as well as gel) Curly Girl suggests simply are too skimpy for me. And in case you haven't noticed, amazing advances have been made in the formulation of gels, and now you also need to watch for certain polyquats. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security about a gel just because it doesn't contain any 'cones. What's more, some people's hair doesn't respond at all well to some of the most common (and seemingly harmless) gel ingredients such as propylene glycol, PVP, acrylates, and others. Just because something is technically CG doesn't mean your hair will thrive with it.

Conditioner. Another aspect of CG that required trial and error for me was conditioner selection. First, not everybody likes protein. (The author has done a rather abrupt about-face on this point herself: her products no longer contain protein and she preaches an anti-protein approach to her followers.) I adore protein and need more of it than I ever would have expected, but coarser haired curlies don't need and don't want protein. Humectants are good in theory, too, but depending on your hair's porosity and the climate you live in, you may not need humectants in the same quantities that somebody else would. Excess humectants result in frizz for some of us. So, when you read that a good conditioner must contain all these ingredients, proceed with caution because your hair may not want them all and it may not want them all in equal proportions.

How much conditioner you leave in your hair is also a huge variable among curly-headed people. Some people like to just not rinse it all out. Others like to rinse it all out and then add a bit more so they have more control. Still others use a curl creme instead of a conditioner. Some like no conditioner left in at all. You are the best judge of what your hair likes. The guidance in the book should only be used as a general suggestion about the need for curly hair to have some moisture left on it somehow. You can figure out for yourself what that moisture should look like for your hair. (And yes, figuring that out can take a while. But it's better to experiment than to blindly follow the advice of one stylist who has never seen your hair.)

Touching and being gentle. This is some of the best advice ever. Make sure your hair is totally dry before you scrunch out your crunch. It does make a world of difference! I have also found that towels with no nap make the best choices (I avoid terrycloth and even microfiber towels, which act like velcro on my hair, even when it's wet).

The Curly Girl book is a great introduction to the needs of curly hair. After you read it, loiter at the naturallycurly.com discussion boards (do NOT believe everything that's posted there, however!) to get some new insights, and read some of the blogs I've got listed in my favorites. Acquire information.

If there were one right way to handle curly hair, everybody's curly hair would be perfect and beautiful. But the sad truth is that there is no surefire way that applies to everyone's hair. All you can do is learn what you can, talk to people, and experiment. And when you experiment, you may discover a trick or two that will help someone else.

CurlyNikki has a forum!

2009-10-24T08:34:00.001-07:00

Once upon a time, there was no place for curly-headed people to go to talk about their hair. The world was a dark place, full of frizz and useless hair products.

Then came NaturallyCurly.com. And there was light!

A few months ago, we were treated to the LiveCurlyLiveFree discussion board (especially for curlies with somewhat "advanced" knowledge). Some nice brainy discussions go on there.

And now.... CurlyNikki has launched a forum, too. Headings include: Products, Henna, Stylin' and Profilin', Transitioning, and more! Go have a visit and see what you think!

Products I Love

2009-10-13T19:27:00.000-07:00

Curly Nikki just posted about her Holy Grail products, and that prompted me to disclose mine here. What's interesting is how few I really have. I've been CG for more than two years now and this list -- a finely honed assortment that doesn't reveal any inkling of how many products I went through to find them -- is all I've got. Maybe some of yours are on this list, too?

Shampoo(s): never touch the stuff (well, okay, sometimes I reach for Jessicurl's Hair Cleansing Cream, but normally I just scrub with a palmful of Suave Naturals Coconut Conditioner)

Conditioner(s): I'm on my last bottle of Activate Hydrating Conditioner (pictured here among some companion products as a kind of memorial), which has yet to be replaced by anything else as my No. 1 favorite. The company no longer makes the stuff (or maybe the company is out of business; I don't know) and I will have to turn instead to any of these very nice conditioners: Mop Top Daily Conditioner, Aloeba, Aubrey Organics Island Naturals as well as GPB Conditioner, Karen's Body Beautiful Hair Nectar and the old version of EO's Rose and Chamomile (of which I have only two more bottles left).

Leave-in/Styler (s):I always use my regular conditioners as leave-ins and you already know what those are, so I'll just list stylers: Kinky-Curly Curling Custard is my absolute Holy Grail product, and yet I cannot use it by itself. In rainy weather, I mix it with Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee and for nice, normal dew points (35 to 55), I mix the KCCC with Max Green Alchemy Sculpting Gel. Sometimes Aubrey's B5 Design Gel alone or mixed with Mandarin Magic is nice. I've also been discovering Joico JoiWhip mousse lately -- it's not consistently great but when it's good, it's very very good.

Deep Conditioner (s): Several months ago, I decided that these are just silly. For me, anyway. My hair (3a, fine) doesn't need deep conditioning as much as it needs protein, so I combine the two in my daily conditioners and my hair is much happier.

When imaginations curl

2009-10-09T20:50:00.000-07:00

My curls inspire some dark thoughts. The kind that should never see the light of day.

Like, every morning, when I step carefully into my shower, I think about how I should have cleaned the tub better. I think about how the tile's slick surface is an amalgam of conditioners gone before. And I think about slipping, and falling, and breaking my neck in the pursuit of curls.

When I lean forward to scrunch out all the water and my back creaks its objections, I think about how I easily I tolerate this pain. I wonder how old I will be before it becomes impossible to assume this position for very long, and I think about what on earth I will do if I cannot scrunch water out and product in when I am in my seventies.

Stooped over to allow my hair to fall neatly into my diffuser, I'm aware of my neck's distaste for this position. I think about a woman I worked with who suffered from a pinched nerve and I think about what a foul mood she was always in. She didn't have curls, though, I reason, so no wonder she was bitchy.

On the train to work, I imagine myself slugging the idiot behind me who can't control his newspaper. Each time it disturbs the damp curls on the back of my head, I think about another way to make him resort to a Kindle in the future.

All of this before I even get to work.

Adjusting the volume

2009-09-30T20:20:00.000-07:00

I'm old enough to remember several different hair trends:

The long, flat straight tresses of the sixties

The feathered look of the seventies

The big hair of the 80s

The grunge do's of the 90s

And thankfully, today there's more than one acceptable way to wear one's hair. Look at the tremendous variety of hair we see in the first decade of the new millennium! Big hair is fun, flat hair is cool, and curls (especially defined ones) are arguably more popular now than at any time since the Marcel wave (shown below for you young'uns who may not know what it is).

So now, we have the enviable privilege of living in a time when we get to choose whether we want curls or not, and if we do want them, we can also decide whether we want them to dangle, bounce, stick out, or look as if we got caught in a steam room. Another factor in our control that previous generations did not enjoy: volume.

Many curlies struggle with volume. Those who have it want to reduce it and those who weren't blessed with it desperately want it.

HOW TO BUILD VOLUME
I will start with this one, since I've got more experience with it. Everyone thinks I have a lot of hair and maybe that's true, but the hair that I do have is thin, so I'm always looking to make it look thicker. Here are some of the tricks that have worked for me:

- Diffuse dry. Now, there's more to this than simply diffusing. To build volume, I've also learned to:
* Get out most of the water from my hair first. I use my Curl-Ease towel to squeeze handfuls of curls after I apply my styling products.
* Do it upside down. This position helps to keep the roots from plastering to your head.
* Diffuse to about 85% dry. I used to go to 75% or even 80% -- no, I do not have a scientific method for determining this -- but then learned the less water I asked my hair to carry around, the better, volume-wise.

- Mousse it up. Mousse does add a bit of volume, but not if you use it on hair that's too wet or if you use too much of it. The air in the mousse helps keep your hair lighter. Not all gels weigh down your hair, but if you're looking to lighten things up, try mousse. I've had luck with Joico JoiWhip (loaded with protein, so if you love that, great; if you need to avoid it, beware), and also Herbal Essences Totally Twisted. The only downside is that is dews over 50 or 55, frizz is likely without a gel on top of it, which gets to the next point.

- Use fewer products. This rule is pure logic, really. The more stuff you put in your hair, the heavier it gets. One product may work in tandem with another to promote a certain type of curl you desire, but every product you add to your hair adds to the potential of weighing it down. Choose wisely, my curly friend. I find I can never use more than two products over my leave-in. And really, the more you combine products, the more you increase the possibility that none of them will work as they should.

- Look for certain ingredients. Some ingredients raise the cuticle a little and although this can result in making hair a little rougher than the silken tresses we've all been taught to strive for, when you are short on volume, raising the cuticle a wee bit can increase volume, making it look like you have more hair than you actually do. And yay for that. For the first year I was CG, I vaguely noticed that whenever I co-washed, I always had more volume that day. I later read that one of the ingredients in my co-wash (Suave Naturals Coconut) contains cetrimonium chloride, which raises the cuticle. Stearalkonium chloride will also do it, but my hair doesn't seem to like it (gives me frizz). I've also found that panthenol has a good volumizing effect on my hair, too. Panthenol is mostly a humectant, but it also binds to hair and adds to its volume without creating weight. I'm a fan.

HOW TO DECREASE VOLUME
Just as removing water from hair helps to minimize weight, incorporating more helps to make it heavier, thereby decreasing volume. Some tips:

- Add your styling products to soaking wet hair. A person on the naturallycurly.com discussion boards recently earned a lot of devotees when she announced her super-soaker method. Her post is a prime example of how keeping hair very wet for as long as possible will weigh it down and diminish volume.

- Air dry. Not using a blow-dryer prevents any air from helping to fluff things up. It will take forever to dry, of course, so that's why some people opt for using something like this hard-hat dryer. If you have the time and space to set it up, it can be a great way to speed up the drying process without adding volume.

- Apply more product. People who want to reduce volume can use leave-ins and curl cremes more liberally than those with thin or sparse hair. Not only does this help to add weight, but it can also really give your hair a good dose of a given product's benefits.

- Experiment with oils and butters. Thicker-haired people can tolerate oils much better than people looking for fuller hair. And just because one oil or butter doesn't agree with you hair doesn't mean that others won't. Play with oils and see what your hair might like. Keep in mind that coconut oil and avocado oil have been shown to penetrate the hair shaft best and may therefore give you more softness and pliability (is that a word), which are also attributes you'll want in your quest to reduce volume.

Got any tips for reducing or building volume? Share them please!

Silicones, polyquats, and soap

2009-09-27T20:43:00.000-07:00

Who doesn't have questions about silicones, polyquats and soap?

To get some answers, I assembled the stellar roundtable group I consulted for the aloe vera discussion a few weeks ago: Marsha Coulton, the owner of Curl Junkie, who concocts her own products and was a stylist before that. She's got definite opinions about curly hair. Next, we have JC, whose blog I wrote about a few months ago. She is a curly-hair scientist in the UK who backs up her findings and determinations about hair by quoting from specific scientific studies. Jessica McGuinty, founder of Jessicurl, shies away from silicones, soaps, and polyquats in her product formulations, and as she stated in a recent interview, does a lot of testing of these products and how they perform. Tiffany Anderson-Taylor, aka StruttsWife on the NaturallyCurly.com discussion boards, has been a hair stylist in Florida for several years, and recently wrote a book about caring for curly hair. Her site, Live Curly Live Free, is a fantastic resource for people curious about curls' unique needs. She is not a fan of silicones. And finally, we have Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetic formulator who is associated with one of my favorite blogs, The Beauty Brains as well as a site for cosmetic chemists called Chemists Corner. He's written a book titled Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, and he has been a senior project leader at Alberto Culver.

Here's what these experts had to say....

1. Followers of the "Curly Girl" method avoid products with silicone because although they coat the hair to smooth it and reduce frizz, they also are believed to block moisture, which curly hair desperately needs. Have new silicones been developed since that book came out in 2002 that are "lighter" or attach themselves less to hair? And are curlies unnecessarily avoiding silicones, in your opinion?

PERRY: Silicones are not all the same. Some like Dimethicone are substantive (will stick to hair) and others like Dimethicone Copolyol are not substantive (will not stick to hair). Companies can modify Dimethicone Copolyol to make it more substantive. There is also Cyclomethicone which is substantive but will slowly evaporate off the hair just like water. These different types have been around for decades.

Silicones work by coating the hair. They do not penetrate significantly. This means there is some potential for build-up of substantive silicones so avoiding them is not unreasonable. However, they do not affect the amount of moisture in the hair. If silicones on hair did significantly block moisture, curly hair would never dry! The water from your shower wouldn't be able to leave your hair and that just isn't what happens.

There really is no reason for curlies to completely avoid all silicones. Dimethicone Copolyol & Cyclomethicones are perfectly fine to use and will not build up. And occasional use of Dimethicone will not hurt either.

JESS: I agree that most things in moderation won't cause too much trouble. The trouble starts when a heavy cone like Dimethicone is used daily and is not being washed regularly. (as we all know we're not supposed to wash our hair every day for fear of the dreaded poof.) At that point a harsher shampoo is necessary to remove the silicone, thus drying out the hair and causing the curly to believe only more silicone will solve the problem. So the cycle continues. For this reason I avoid all cones in Jessicurl products and use gentle surfactants in the cleansers to that users don't have to face the problem of the rebound cycle. Occasional use of silicones shouldn't be a problem though.

MARSHA: For me, if you can find a gentle shampoo that can remove silicones, then it doesn't seem to matter. I had just been revisiting the silicones issue again to see if they are really worth avoiding. I found that at first, they give me the feeling that everything is okay. It's not that my hair looks any better, but it feels better with the silicones in the beginning. But then, after I shampoo to get them out, I realize they just seem to mask my hair's real condition. In other words, they don't help improve or add to the hair's condition. But let's face it: your hair's not gonna fall off your head if you use silicones. The trick is finding the right shampoo -- many are so rough. For the look I like, I need a lot of product, so I do like to use my gentle cleansing shampoo on my hair. The co-wash method doesn't work for me, and I have witnessed that it doesn't work for everyone.

I am not a fan of Cyclomethicone or Cyclosiloxane. They apparently evaporate off the hair, but for me something in doing so makes my hair frizz. If you must use silicones, I prefer the PEGs and dimethicone copolyol since they have some degree of water solubility. As far as new types of silicones, I haven't seen anything new. The industry seems to be happy with what it has.

JC: I'm certain that there have been new silicones developed but I do think the existing silicones are perfectly fine. Frankly silicones were being abused by curlies circa 2002, especially with people using serums on their hair every day, so the book was necessary for people to rethink this habit. I do think that fast forwarding to today, many curlies are unnecessarily scared of silicones . I personally do NOT think that silicones are bad. In fact, I would even go as far as to say they are good in certain cases.There is a huge difference between using a styling serum with 80% silicone and a shampoo with under 5%. The shampoo with silicone actually offers protection in terms of keeping your hair on your head (preventing breakage) and maintaining the internal moisture. The styling serum is useful for protecting from heat damage therefore necessary in my book for heat styling but perhaps if the serum is used daily, then problems will arise. Some people really do well with silicone containing conditioners (especially bleached/coloured hair) and in this case the silicone offers some protection from moisture loss and helps temporarily seal damaged portions of the hair. Hair is a very personal thing, one person's experience is rarely completely reflective of all hair.

TIFFANY: I believe anything that forms an impenetrable barrier on the hair shaft, like non-water soluble silicones such as dimethicone, is often problematic in the long run. The cuticle of our hair strand is formed like roof tiles to allow penetration of moisture and oxygen into the hair shaft for a reason. Continually coating and sealing the cuticle to prevent it from performing its proper function for a long period of time is not the best route to optimum hair health in the long run.

I do not believe all silicones are "evil"; however, I do counsel my clients to stick to those that are water soluble, such as dimethicone copolyol or PEG/PPG-manufactured silicones, whenever possible to avoid any potential issues.

2. Polyquaterniums seem to behave much like silicones -- they bind to hair and in some cases, aren't even fully removed even by sulfate-laden shampoos. Should curlies be mindful of polyquats, and if so, which ones? Are we worrying about silicones when polyquats are really much harder to remove? And do polyquats block moisture like silicones do?

PERRY: Curlies should be much more concerned about Polyquats than silicones. Polyquats are positively charged polymers that effectively stick to the damaged sites on hair. They make the hair feel smooth and soft but they can also build up with repeated use resulting in flatter, less lively curls. They can even be more difficult to remove than even Dimethicone. The most problematic polyquat is Polyquaternium-10. While it is the most effective at conditioning hair, it is also the most likely to build-up. Better choices include Polyquaternium-7 or Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium Chloride.

Neither silicones nor polyquats significantly block moisture. The negative to using them is that they build up on hair and weigh it down.

JESS: When researching what ingredients to put in our Confident Coils Styling Solution, it because obvious that many curlies have an aversion to polyquats. For this reason I left it out and thus haven't done much further research on it as I don't intend to use them in any future products. So I guess I don't have an emotional opinion on them one way or the other.

MARSHA: Polyquat 7 and 11 seem to be the most substantive and hardest to remove if you do not shampoo. I do not find that Polyquat 10 is not as hard to remove. Chlorides seem to do a good job at removing it. Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium Chloride is an interesting ingredient -- it's a great conditioner but you have to be careful as too much seems to over condition the hair and cause frizz. I've used it in small amounts in some of my products and have had no complaints, but it's easy to overuse and I've seen other products that use too much. Polyquats 4 and 44 are not very difficult to remove. Polyquats 37 and 72 are supposed to provide good curl retention and I suspect would be harder to remove, although I haven't actually used them in my products (although I've tried them out in other products I've tested). And interestingly, Polyquat 72 hasn't been picked up by the industry as much as I would have expected, which probably also says something about its performance record. I believe most shampoos will remove any kind of polyquat, though. When you see some of these ingredients before they go into a formulation, you get a sense of how they behave. For instance, Polyquats 10 and 4 and Guar Hydroxpropyltrimonium Chloride are powder and dissolve instantly in water. For me, this gives you some clue about how they'll behave on hair (in terms of water solubility), especially when you contrast them with Polyquats 7 and 11, which are gluey.

JC: As a surface scientist, I can say that there are quite a few things that cannot be completely removed by SLS; to completely remove, a proper solvent (like chloroform) is needed. We need to redefine this idea of 'complete' removal and why we feel it is necessary because in order to do so, extreme measures have to be taken.

As Perry says, polyquats stick to hair as they have a positive charge. This is similar to other conditioning agents that curlies have no problem with such as such as stearalkonium chloride or behentrimonium chloride. Now people will like different types of conditioning agents. The general trend I have noticed in literature is that polyquats tend to be more useful for damaged hair (bleached). I really have to emphasize and say not all hair will react in the same way to a given product. Some people will swear by polyquats, others won't.

Even more unique, a seemingly similar combination of ingredients from two different companies can yield different results. It really is about how well the product was formulated, so I'm with Marsha on this one, test it first and see how it behaves.

TIFFANY: "Polyquaterniums" is an extremely general category and it is difficult to make a sweeping assumption and say whether or not they are "good" or "bad" across the board. From a cosmetology perspective, however, allergic contact dermatitis, or a hypersensitivity reaction, is not uncommon among some individuals after exposure to certain polyquaterniums.

Most surfactants seem to be effective in removing polyquat build-up; however, I would more cautious about their use from a health perspective rather than a beauty perspective if an individual is prone to any type of skin sensitivities.

3. For people who don't want to use shampoo of any kind, what methods of hair cleansing do you recommend? Are there some ingredients that people should look for that do the job without stripping the hair? Or is it really the friction rather than the ingredients that ensure cleanliness? (I realizes cleanliness is a relative term, so feel free to comment on that, as well.)

PERRY: If you want to avoid shampoo, you have a variety of options. You can was your hair with a basic conditioner. Look for products that contain Cetrimonium Chloride or Stearalkonium Chloride. Avoid Dimethicone & polyquats since these will not be removed by the surfactants in the basic conditioners. However, it is ok to use conditioners that contain Dimethicone Copolyol. This ingredient is barely substantive and build up will not be a problem. An excellent conditioner wash is VO5 Hot Oil formula. The name is actually misleading because there is no oil in the formula. It contains an ingredient called Cocotrimonium Chloride which is both a great conditioner and a good detergent.

Other options are to use dry powder shampoos like Oscar Blondi or a No-Rinse shampoo. Both of these products do not require water to rinse out but many people are dissatisfied with how they leave the hair feeling. You'll have to try them to see if you like them.

JESS: Personally, I never found a conditioner-only system to work for me, but I know lots of curlies like it. I've had luck with mild apple cider vinegar rinses but even that can be drying over time. I know some poo-less curlies use baking soda and my experience with that was that it was FAR more drying than even a sulfate shampoo. For that reason, I think a mild cleanser using gentle surfactants should allow for good cleansing without stripping. I understand that this is basically my own personal opinion though, and that many people have great success with conditioner-only washing. It just never worked for me personally.

MARSHA: For me, co-washing doesn't work very well although I know that there are many people who use this method effectively. I try to formulate my products so that those on a CG regimen can use them without worry as well. That being said, if I were to look for an ingredient for sulfate free cleansing, I would look for a formulation with coco betaine but you should be careful if it's your only surfactant, as it can be harsh (especially at higher PH levels). I have found that it's meant to work best in synergy with other surfactants to be most effective and gentle. Shampoo formulation is a difficult process because shampoo ideally needs to be more alkaline to have the cleansers be the most effective, but it best in general for a product to be more acidic to be more gentle on the hair. Ideally a pH of 5-6 should provide a good balance between cleansing and conditioning. But do consumers know the pH of products when they buy them? Of course not. So, it's challenging to find one that works for you. Some people use baking soda to clean their hair, but I think can really rough up the cuticle so you might as well use a gentle shampoo. If you don't want to use shampoo, you need to avoid some of the stronger silicones and polyquats. Other ingredients that you could look for if you are conditioner washing are PEG ingredients as most seem to suds up and can help with cleansing. Another thing curlies who co-wash need to remember is that friction as well as ingredients matter when cleansing. The scalp really benefits from friction as this really helps to dislodge product residue and dirt/oil.

JC: Scientifically the evidence that we have is that there is nothing wrong with shampoo. Friction is not needed for shampoo to work. This is about solubility of oils. Here is a simple chemistry experiment you can do at home. Take a plate of greasy bacon, eat the bacon (if you wish). Place the plate under a cold water tap and scrub with your hands, would this plate feel/look clean? Next place a little dishwashing liquid and mix with water, do not scrub. Leave for 5 minutes and rinse - would this plate feel/look clean? Try it, scrubbing is not necessary because the oil is dissolved by the detergent. Yes scrubbing will quicken the process and help distribute the product which is why hair is washed with scrubbing.

In short, shampoo is an extremely mild version of dishwashing liquid (which is why shampoo does not wash dishes well). It does contain detergents such as SLS which dissolve oils, something that plain water doesn't do. The idea behind shampoo is to remove grease and the dirt that grease attracts in low temperature water (you do not have the luxury of using hot water on your head as you would with dishes).

It is perfectly understandable that many curlies are not looking for that squeaky clean feel which shampoo is designed to give. It is also perfectly understable that for very curly hair, we would probably even add oil to hair (I do). There is a whole range of shampoos to pick from. I would recommend a visit to the beautybrains site if you are looking for the nitty gritty on what you should expect from shampoo.

TIFFANY: You do not need a harsh, detergent-based product to wash your hair; movement and agitation are extremely effective in and of themselves. Think of a washing machine: that agitator in the middle that swishes your clothes back and forth is there for a reason. Without it, your laundry detergent would be fairly ineffective, no matter how many "mountain-fresh" chemicals and surfactants are loaded in there.

If you use a decent cleansing agent once a week, even one without a surfactant of any kind, and give yourself a really good, brisk scalp massage while cleansing—using your fingertips and rubbing your scalp with a firm, energetic circular motion—you are massaging the excess sebum, dirt and debris out of your hair follicles while stimulating your sebaceous glands to maintain their proper function. The cleansing agent acts as an agent to carry that oil and debris away without damaging and drying out your hair shaft. A good cleanser should never strip your hair of the moisture and oils that keep it healthy.

I haven't used shampoo on my hair since April 2002; my hair is extremely clean and not in the least bit oily or dirty. If sulfates and the like were that mandatory to clean the hair effectively, I would not have been able to maintain not just good, but extraordinary hair health over the past 7-1/2 years.

4. Do you ever recommend soaps of any kind for use on the hair?

PERRY: No. You should not use soap on your hair. Soap can combine with naturally occurring ions in your water (Calcium and Magnesium) and form insoluble salts the will stick to your hair. These salts feel waxy, make hair look dull, and are extremely difficult to remove. When you see a ring around someone's bath tub, that's what it is, insoluble salts from their soap. You don't want that in your hair.

Now, it might be ok to use synthetic soaps for your hair but that's really no different than using shampoo.

JESS: I agree with Perry, a gentle surfactant cleanser will be better for the hair than a bar of soap.

MARSHA: I agree with Perry and Jess as well, I do not really like to use soap bars as I always feel the film (residue)! The pH of a natural soap bar tends to be alkaline and that can be hard on the cuticle. I like gentle cleansers. Some people like soaps and they should use them, but I'm not in that group.

JC: I think people will do what works best for them. I think scientifically shampoo is your best bet for cleaning hair provided there is a follow up - conditioner. However, I have seen many natural haired ladies who thoroughly advocate for castile soap and shampoo bars (many with great looking hair). There is also always the good old conditioner washing of hair. This works well for some but others can experience problems as Jess said earlier. Also some surfactants in conditioner can actually end up forming a complex with shampoo instead of being washed off and this can create build up (Yes, really I don't make this stuff up - Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, pg 205-214,1989).

TIFFANY: I know shampoo bars are all the rage these days, but I do have a few concerns about them.

Shampoo bars typically range from 8 to 10 on the pH scale, meaning they are quite alkaline. Alkaline substances will open up the hair shaft, allowing the cleansers to penetrate within the hair shaft to remove build-up. That, in itself, is not necessarily a bad thing: however, it is important to remember that you are stripping your acid mantle every time you cleanse with these bars.

The acid mantle is the very fine, slightly acidic film on the scalp that acts as a barrier to keep bacteria, viruses and other contaminants or chemicals from penetrating the scalp. As an example: one of the reasons that you are instructed to color your hair when it is "dirty" instead of freshly washed is not because the color will take better on the hair shaft—it is so your acid mantle is intact and will prevent the chemical color from penetrating your scalp.

If you are cleansing with shampoo bars, you are interfering with the natural acid mantle function and leaving a very vulnerable part of yourself exposed. Your acid mantle is there for a reason and it needs to remain undisturbed as much as possible so it can do its job to keep you healthy.

Thank you, experts, for your opinions! I think we've all learned a lot from these insights.

Weird Product Wednesday: Marini Hair Revitalizing Conditioner

2009-09-23T18:01:00.000-07:00

(The folks at Jan Marini posted a comment to this post and rather than leaving it where not all readers will see it, I've added their additions in red to this original post. I'm grateful to them for contacting me and clarifying several bits of information that I got wrong.)

Hold on to your ringlets, boys and girls. This product is poised to be weirder than Dr. Bronner's Magic Organic Shikakai Conditioning Hair Rinse (but for entirely different reasons)!

A rep from Jan Marini asked if I'd be interested in trying the company's new product called Marini Hair Revitalizing Conditioner. I don't have to tell you how difficult it is to say no to free products. I looked up the ingredients, found nothing that violated my no-silicone-or-polyquat 11 rules, and told the rep I'd be happy to try the product and share my experience with you nice people.

Here are the ingredients, by the way:

Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Spirolac (7á-Acetylthio-3-oxo-17á-pregn-4-ene-21,17-carbolactone), Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Ester, Steareth-100, Steareth-2, Mannan, Xanthan Gum, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben,Propylparaben, Retinol, Panthetine, Kiwi Fragrance (Parfum), Zinc PCA, Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Japanese Green Tea Extract, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Niacinamide

Perhaps you stopped to pause at "Spirolac." I know I did. I had no idea what it was, and although it sounded like spirulina, which is a health food supplement, a quick look around the Interwebs told me that the last place I'd find Spirolac was in a health food store.

In a nutshell, Spirolac is spironolactone, which has been linked to cancer, according to Jan Marini's product specs. Spironolactone, primarily a blood-pressure medicine and a diuretic, is also prescribed for women who suffer from hair loss. According to Hair Site, Spironolactone "works as an antiandrogen by decreasing the production of testosterone by the adrenal glands and by preventing DHT from binding to its androgenic receptor. Some have suggested that Spironolactone can bond to the hair follicles before DHT can bind to the receptor." For this reason, it is not prescribed for men, although it is used topically to treat male-pattern baldness. It is a common component in hormone therapy for male-to-female transsexual and transgender people.

Okay, so we've got a product here that contains a topical application (something that's best used to treat male pattern baldness) of a substance that the company warns might give you cancer. Hmmm. An auspicious beginning.

When the rep wrote me, she stated: "I’d like to introduce you to a recent Jan Marini product release that immediately and dramatically improves the appearance of aging, thinning and environmentally and chemically damaged hair, and gives it renewed body and bounce! Marini Hair Revitalizing Conditioner, already a favorite of Hollywood hairstylists and their clients, immediately makes the hair softer and more manageable. Over time, the hair will appear significantly thicker, fuller, lusher and dense and results will become progressively more pronounced.

Marini Hair features the same proprietary peptide ingredient contained in our hugely popular cosmetic eyelash enhancement product, Marini Lash Eyelash Conditioner."

Is the "proprietary peptide ingredient" Spirulac? Nothing in my research refers to either Spirulac or Spironolactone as peptides. But tetrapeptide-12 and pentapeptide-17 are peptides. And from what I can find about peptides, they're nice additions to skin care products (they stimulate cell metabolism and protect against UVB damage) but they won't stimulate hair growth. More on this in a moment. (Jan Marini says: "Actually, peptides perform multiple functions, including hair and lash enhancement to promote the appearance of lusher, fuller, thicker hair and lashes.")

And maybe that's okay, because Jan Marini Revitalizing Conditioner isn't necessarily promising to stimulate hair growth. It is only saying that it will make hair "thicker, fuller, lusher and dense."

This is where product copy gets really fun. I know because I used to write it. There are distinct and specific boundaries that personal care product claims must stay within in order for them to meet FDA labeling regulations for cosmetics. You'll notice that no cosmetic ever says it will absolutely cure something -- that's because it can't and technically, only a drug can cure something. So, cosmetic companies have to be careful about their claims. (Things are a little different for the class of products called cosmeceuticals, but we don't have time to talk about that now.)

But wait. There's more.

Jan Marini debuted a mascara called Marini Lash (which is what the rep referenced in her email to me) in 2005 and it was met with tons of accolades because it promised to make lashes lusher -- and apparently delivered on that promise. It used peptides that an early study showed to stimulate hair growth at the follicle. Hence, eyelash hair would ostensibly grow thicker and fuller. (I have not tried this mascara, mostly because, as you can see at Amazon, it sells for anywhere between $68 to $105 dollars. Working girls like me will stick with the L'Oreal Lash Out, thanks ever so. For a good review and highly scientific explanation of how Marini Lash works, visit FutureDerm.com. Let me know if it makes any sense to you if you are of a scientific bent.) ( From Jan Marini: "While we do make a Marini Mascara with the same proprietary peptide ingredient found in Marini Lash, the product that we sent you and which was reviewed was indeed Marini Lash, a clear-liquid lash enhancement product that is applied like an eyeliner.")

But here's the thing: the original formula of Marini Lash had to be taken off the market , and many believe it was because the subsequent studies of its primary ingredient -- a drug called latanoprost -- could not duplicate the initial findings of it as an eyelash growth stimulator. (From Jan Marini: "Peptides were not in the original formula. The key ingredient was “bimatoprost,” not "latanoprost".)

Um, I thought it was the peptides that made the hair grow? Nope, I guess not. I'm so confused.

Well, so as not to disappoint customers who were clamoring for the stuff -- which may or may not have actually made their lashes thicker and lusher -- the company put out a new version of it, sans the latanoprost. That's probably when the Spirolac was substituted. (From Jan Marini: "Marini Lash never contained Spirolac. Marini Hair contains Spirolac. Rather, the new Marini Lash contains a proprietary peptide blend, which in combination with other essential factors, produces extraordinary eyelash and brow enhancement.")

And here's another piece of weirdness: the rep's email said what I've disclosed above, but the the product bottle itself makes NO CLAIMS WHATSOEVER. I mean none. Every other product I've ever used on my hair addresses somewhere on the bottle or jar what I might expect from it. Luster, fullness, body, shine, elimination of life's little toxicities, whatever. But this one says nothing. The box that the bottle came in reads exactly the same as the bottle. The little insert that came in the box, however, says this:

Marini Hair Revitalizing Conditioner is a remarkable formula that targets thinning and aging hair. Now you can experience vibrant, lusher, fuller and younger looking hair.

Disclaimer:
Marini Hair Revitalizing Conditioner is not intended to stop, prevent, cure, relieve, reverse or reduce hair loss or to promote the growth of hair.

Isn't it funny that both claim and disclaimer are on an insert and not on the product itself? I don't want to accuse Jan Marini of anything underhanded, but the placement of that information raises some questions, in my mind. The box and bottle both say "patent pending" so maybe there are some issues caught up in that process.

The rep said she hoped I would use the product for 3 months to experience the full effects of it. I haven't done that, but I have used it for about a month, fairly religiously. I don't see much going on but I am so skeptical, I doubt I'll continue using it. I mean, the product doesn't claim to do anything, it costs a fortune, and an insert tells me my hair will be lusher and fuller but that I shouldn't expect a reduction in hair loss or the growth of new hair.

So, then, isn't this just a volumizing conditioner?

I do want to say that Jan Marini is highly respected and has been around since 1994. I don't believe the company is trying to be sneaky. More than likely, they encountered some resistance from the FDA and have had to reposition the product, and as as result, the mixed messages compromise the product's identity and allure. As you can see from the website, Ms. Marini, the founder, has a lot of celebrity endorsements (and all from people who look pretty damn good). Jan Marini Skin Research makes products that address the usual skin care problems, such as acne and rosacea. (It also markets a line of professional and clinical products that are available only by prescription.) The company's products are sold through distributors in more than 80 countries worldwide and directly to physicians and licensed skin care professionals. Major competitors are Clarins, Estee Lauder, and Kiehl's -- so we're looking at a very upscale product line here.

I also want to say a genuine "thank you" to the rep who sent this product to me. I'm not being sarcastic. As an author, I know what it's like to send out my "product" (at my expense) to a reviewer who may ultimately trash it publicly. It's a nasty fact of life that when you open yourself up to public scrutiny, you expose yourself to potential humiliation and criticism as well as appreciation and applause. I appreciate this opportunity to review the product and am flattered that the company took a risk on me.

I could have been polite and just said that it was a cool product and that you should buy it. But that wouldn't have been honest. And I'm not saying the product is bad -- as a conditioner, it's certainly fine. And as a weird product, it most certainly qualifies.

Best hair advice ever

2009-09-05T13:46:00.001-07:00

I'm a no-bullshit kind of gal, which will come as no surprise to you if you've been reading this blog for any amount of time. I love girly stuff, and I love the idea of creating illusions with hair/makeup/accessories, but I don't really have much tolerance for legerdemain where hair products are concerned. Do not lie to me, is basically my mantra. And I would wager that many of you feel the same way.

And that's why I loved this recent post by Paula Begoun that tells it like it is about hair and hair products. I sometimes lose patience with folks obsessed with hair care (yeah, yeah, guilty as charged!) to the point where they opt for marketing hype or some kind of emotional attachment over fact or science. Some people want to believe that something is good for their hair even when all evidence -- including the product's performance on their own hair! -- points to the contrary. They want to believe that natural products are somehow superior or they want to believe that expensive products are preferable to the ones in the drugstore. And nothing will convince them otherwise.

If you secretly know that you might be one of these types of people, do read Paula's post. And then read the post by my friends at The Beauty Brains about natural products.

I suspect I will take heat for this post. I can already see the comments: "All I know is that my hair does better with natural products." "My scalp breaks out when I use drugstore conditioners." "Cheap products make my hair feel like crap." To these comments, I would counter: "What is natural about your products? Is it the absence of parabens? The lack of anything you cannot pronounce? Has your scalp ever broken out from something not sold in a drugstore (and if not, how do you know that it wouldn't?)? Is it possible that some expensive products could also make your hair feel like crap?"

What I'm getting at is that we all want to feel pampered and special, and we want to believe that our product choices are informed and reflective of our self-respect. But the facts are no secret: there really is not a huge amount of difference among products. Yes, there will be ingredients that some hair likes more than others -- no question about it. But are those differences reflective of the retail price of that product? Over and over, I read that they aren't.

My hair has its preferences, and yours does, too. But it seems to be a question of ingredients, not price.

Time for a bob, methinks

2009-09-05T10:43:00.000-07:00

Most of my life, I've kept my hair length above my shoulders. One reason was that my parents were always insistent that I looked better with short hair because "it showed my face." (To a self-conscious kid like I was, this was precisely the wrong reason to give for keeping hair short.)

But beautiful hair was long, I convinced myself. So, a few times during my five decades of life, I tried growing my hair past my shoulders and every time, I ended up cutting it because it was just too much hair for me. (I don't have thick hair but I do seem to have a lot of it.) I am now at that point where I officially feel (and look) like a troll. Too much hair, not enough Jillipoo.

My hair is about an inch longer than you see in this photo:

It's a good photo but doesn't give the perspective of hair to person. I also think that my hair is dragging down my face. And when you're my age, that is definitely not a good thing.

Here are a couple of the looks I'll be showing my stylist next week. Do you have a favorite? I think they're all basically the same -- only the lengths vary a bit.

I think my favorite might be this one. I like the slightly asymmetric style.

But this look is fabulous, too, except that maybe it looks great because it's blond (and you can see the curls better) and because anything looks cute on Meg Ryan:

And this one is great but I am uncertain whether the angle is too much for me. But I really like it on this model.

This hair is very similar to mine, so I'm drawn to it probably because I like having a hair twin...

Premature Evacuation

2009-09-03T00:02:00.000-07:00

So, it's Wednesday and normally that would mean it's time for a Weird Product post, but I've been foiled in this pursuit by a phenomenon I will call "premature evacuation."

Premature evacuation is what happens when you buy a hair product, give it few tries, determine it isn't right for you, get rid of it, and then suddenly regret its absence. You think of several ways you could have used the product but didn't. Or you read about inventive ways that others used it that you wished you had tried. Bottom line: you wish you still had the product so you could experiment a bit more.

That's what happened to me with Curl Junkie's Aloe Fix Gel. I got a little sample of it and thought it showed some promise. So I bought a jar of it. Used it a few times and never was able to repeat those initial good results. In fact, every subsequent time I used it, my hair got a little uglier. Frizz, limpness, general yuckiness. A couple of weeks after purchasing it, I swapped it at NaturallyCurly for some of my beloved Kinky Curly Curling Custard.

And I was going to write about it for Weird Product Wednesday -- until I started reading that I should have tried using it on dry hair instead of wet. Or that it works if you apply it to your hair before bedtime. Or use it without a leave-in conditioner. Or use it only with leave-in. Or apply it only to the ends of your hair.

So now I feel like I can't cast any aspersions on this product whatsoever because I failed to use it every possible which way known to humankind. Even Marsha herself (owner of Curl Junkie) gives some tips on her blog that I didn't try.

Therefore, due to premature evacuation, I will not be featuring a Weird Product this Wednesday. What a loser I am.

Crazy name, crazy story

2009-08-29T09:09:00.000-07:00

I've got samples to give away of a product with possibly the dumbest name on the planet: Curl Gel-les'c. Have we really run the gamut of nomenclature when we have to resort to hyphens and apostrophes in a product name? Yikes.

It's billed as "not quite a gel, not quite a serum." It has fans as well as detractors, as does every product for curly hair. But I can't use this product because it has Polyquaternium 11 in it, and that ingredient makes my hair throw up. Here's the full ingredient list:

Ingredients: Purified Water, Polyquaternium-11, Sorbitol, Certified Organic Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Polyquaternium-37, Vegetable Glycerin, Certified Organic Coconut Milk ( Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice), Certified Organic Linden Seed Oil ( Tilia Cordata Flower Extract), Certified Organic Flaxseed Oil ( Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Certified Organic Chamoile Extract (Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract) Certified Organic Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract), Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol

To win these samples, you must post a comment with the funniest hair story you've got. I figure a product with a crazy name needs to go to a curly with a crazy hair story. I want to laugh BIG, people, not just an "isn't that cute" kind of story. If we chuckle hard enough, maybe we can forget about how bloody hot it is out there! I will choose the winner by September 7.

Weird Product Wednesday: John Masters Organics Citrus and Neroli Detangler

2009-08-26T21:12:00.000-07:00

It is possible to like a weird product. Take KCCC, for instance. Same is true for John Masters Organics Citrus and Neroli Detangler.

The difference, however, is that I will buy KCCC over and over again because the weirdness is goofy and lovable. Silly, even. But the factors that make me like Citrus and Neroli Detangler are distinctly separate from the reasons I won't repurchase it.

The Good
What a lovely aroma! I am unfamiliar with neroli but if it's the vaguely flowery/creamy scent that melds so deliciously with the subtle citrus, call me a fan. It's not overwhelming in the slightest way and is feminine without being cloying. A+ on scent.

Terrific ingredients. Specifically:
Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera leaf juice) gel,* aqua (water), behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, panthenol (vitamin B5), hydrolyzed soy protein, wheat amino acids, sorbitol, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil,* cocos nucifera (coconut) oil,* helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil,* lecithin, tocopherol, glycerin, citric acid, citrus mentha piperita (peppermint) leaf oil,* rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil,* rosa damascena (rose) flower oil,* pelargonium graveolens?(geranium) flower oil,* mentha spicata (spearmint) leaf oil,* nardostachys jatamansi (spikenard) leaf oil,*sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, arnica montana (arnica) flower extract,* camellia sinensis (white tea) leaf extract,* chamomilla recutica (chamomile) flower extract,* calendula officinalis (calendula) flower extract,* equisetum hiemale (horsetail) leaf/stem extract,* foeniculum vulgare (fennel) seed extract,* lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower extract, linum usitatissimum (flaxseed) seed oil,* borago officinalis (borage) seed oil,* sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid), sulfur *

(I have bolded all the ingredients that my hair likes. Your hair might have different affinities.)

So, I was all set to be enamored with this product. And yes, I did like it. So did my hair.

The Bad
The stuff retails for $16. You get 8 ounces, which works out to be $2 an ounce. Not exorbitant, but not what you could call a bargain. The real problem, though, was that I got about 10 applications from this bottle. Maybe 12. If I conditioned my hair every day, I'd be running to the store for more conditioner in less than 2 weeks. (That is, if I didn't have 15 other bottles of various conditioners in my bathroom right now.)

My hair slurped this potion right up. I found I needed a lot of it to get any slip (or "squish factor" as my pal Del calls it), and although it feels very luxurious in my palms and my hair, I was appalled by how much I needed to work it through my hair in the shower. I would have thought the behentrimonium methosulfate would have provided the slip I like, but it didn't seem to.

It's weird to me that this is marketed as a detangler. Tangling, for me, is one of the few hair problems I've been spared, but I'm thinking that for those who do need something to combat that situation, Citrus and Neroli Detangler doesn't seem like it would be up to the task. I take that back -- it would do the job as long as the user didn't mind going through a couple of bottles a month. (Maybe this product should be packaged like AfroDetangler....)

The Ugly
The crying shame of such a lovely product being too expensive to consider for regular use. A damn ugly shame.

What do you think? If you've used this, did you have to use a ton of it, too? Or is my hair proving once again that it is a demanding beast?

I'm all a-Twitter

2009-08-24T20:57:00.000-07:00

Yep, I succumbed to the siren song of 140 characters or less. I am now on Twitter, for any of you who might be interested. Find me here.

Let's clarify

2009-08-23T09:57:00.000-07:00

(I originally wrote the following post for the now defunct Daily Curl blog, but I thought it was time to give it a second life here, especially for those readers who never saw it the first time.)

In this age of toxic purging and antibacterial cleansing, we always seem to be seeking ways to remove every vestige of dirt, grime, goo, and muck off our skin and certainly off our hair.

It is apparently no longer enough to wash your hair. Now you must clarify it.

I had never heard of such a concept until I was a few months into my CG journey. I first read about it on a discussion group post and wondered whether it was something I needed to do. (Yes, I began CG without ever having clarified. More on this later.)

Clarifying is a fancy word for a good, thorough cleansing — the kind that will remove silicone (and in some cases, hard water) residue from your hair. Before people begin the no-poo routine, they will often clarify to ensure that they are starting with a fresh slate.

My opinion is that clarifying is optional before going CG, but there are plenty of curlies who disagree. Some non-water soluble silicones are nasty, stubborn little buggers but my feeling is that it’s unlikely they will stay in your hair more than a couple of days. If anyone reading this found that it was absolutely necessary to clarify before starting, please feel free to post a comment. Unless you have a whole bunch of built-up gunk in your hair, I think you can move right into co-washing without too much trauma to psyche or hair. If your definition of clean is synonymous with “scrupulous”, then by all means, clarify. If cleanliness is more of a relative term to you, you can safely skip the clarifying.

So what should you use to clarify, in the event that you’ve determined you need to? Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to use sulfates to clarify. Don’t believe me? Check out this list by NaturallyCurly.com’s Curl Chemist. Shampoos with cocamidopropyl betaine or cocobetaine remove even the toughest silicones.

As Tiffany at Live Curly, Live Free says on her blog: “If your cleanser is sulfate-free, but contains another surfactant which is milder, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, you will receive the benefits of clarifying without the harsh effects of sulfates.” Surfactants, not sulfates, are the key to clarifying.

Which leads us to another question about clarifying, and that is whether acidic rinses such as vinegar or lemon juice will accomplish the task. The answer: no, not thoroughly. Acidic rinses are good for getting water-soluble product out of your hair and many people claim that they close your cuticle, which perks hair up and even gives it some shine. But because it is not a surfactant, it won’t do for you what a shampoo will.

Once you are up and running with CG, there should be little need for clarifying because you aren’t using anything that needs serious surfactants to remove them. Hard water or medication build-up, however, might be an issue for you, in which case, clarifying might be in order.

What about clarifying conditioners? They're a great choice for those who want a mild cleansing -- but you can get the very same thing by mixing your shampoo with your conditioner. Why pay for another product?

Do you know a great curly-hair stylist?

2009-08-16T08:02:00.000-07:00

The folks at NaturallyCurly.com recently launched a sister site called CurlStylist.com. To thrive, the site needs the kind of enthusiastic membership and participation that NaturallyCurly has, so I'm helping to get the word out here. Do you have a stylist who understands and loves curls? Somebody who has worked wonders with hair you thought was hopeless? Then CurlStylist might be a site they'll love.

The site is a cool resource for how to cut, style, texture, color and care curly hair (even how to [gasp!] straighten it). The content is chock-full video, articles, pix, and tips. And you don't have to be a stylist to benefit from some of the videos -- they show you how to apply a variety of products and how to style with them. (I'm not a fan of Miss Jessie's products, but there are loads of videos from that company on the site, so if you use the products, you might pick up a trick or two from videos. I saw a few from Deva, as well, and even some from companies and stylists I'd never heard of.)

As I was prowling around, I found the equivalent of NC's CurlTalk, which is called ChairTalk. If stylists are anything like clients, this part of the site should get pretty lively fairly soon. Right now, though, there wasn't too much going on. Give it time, though, give it time.... Actually, you don't have to be a stylist to join. By joining, you can participate in the ChairTalk discussions and write product reviews.

I'll be telling my stylist about the site next time I see her. Maybe I'll even type in the URL while color sits on my head -- I get bored with the gossip rags she stocks!

Knights of the aloe vera roundtable

2009-08-11T21:45:00.000-07:00

Despite aloe vera's ubiquitous appearance in products, few of us know exactly how it works and why. Many believe that it is the supreme source of moisture for hair, yet for some people, aloe vera makes their hair "squeaky" and brittle.

Is it possible to get easy, straightforward answers regarding aloe vera? Doesn't seem so. Even the Wikipedia entry says: "Scientific evidence for the cosmetic and therapeutic effectiveness of Aloe vera is limited and when present is typically contradictory."

I thought it might be fun to assemble a group of informed people who work in the beauty business and get their opinions. We've got Marsha, the owner of Curl Junkie, who concocts her own products and was a stylist before that. She's got definite opinions about curly hair. Next, we have JC, whose blog I wrote about a few days ago. She is a curly-hair scientist in the UK who backs up her findings and determinations about hair by quoting from specific scientific studies. Jessica McGuinty, founder of Jessicurl, uses aloe in many of her product formulations, and as she stated in a recent interview, does a lot of testing of these products and how they perform. Tiffany Anderson-Taylor, aka StruttsWife on the NaturallyCurly.com discussion boards, has been a hair stylist in Florida for several years, and recently wrote a book about caring for curly hair. Her site, Live Curly Live Free, is a fantastic resource for people curious about curls' unique needs. And finally, we have Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetic formulator who is associated with one of my favorite blogs, The Beauty Brains as well as a site for cosmetic chemists called Chemists Corner. He's written a book titled Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, and he has been a senior project leader at Alberto Culver.

That's a lot of hairy brain power. And yet, opinions at this roundtable are as divergent as Elvis Costello's discography. See for yourself.

Jillipoo: I've heard aloe vera described as pure moisture, a humectant, a protein, and an astringent. How would you describe it?

Marsha: I would describe it as a moisturizer and I believe it has a small amount of amino acids in it, but not enough that I would call it a protein.

JC: I didn't realize just how popular aloe vera was until I received repeated requests for research about it. It does contain a whole bunch of stuff including sugars, calcium, iron, vitamins, proteins (enzymes) and aminoacids. You can read the full list here Br J Gen Pract. 1999 October; 49(447): 823–828. I think aloe vera defies description and is probably one of the substances to watch for the future. It is sort of important to say though that the gel is different from whole leaf extracts (as far as medicinal properties are concerned)

Jess: I also know it to be moisturizing, without being overly heavy or causing build up. In the testing during the production of my styling products, it the batches without aloe didn't seem to allow for the same softness to the hair once dried as the batches with it.

Tiffany: Because aloe vera contains enzymes that promote stimulation of the hair follicles, I tend to view it mainly as an astringent, although I feel it certainly has its place within the other categories as well.

Perry: Aloe vera is primarily a humectant made up of polysaccharides. It is formulated into hair care products to help support a marketing natural story and is not expected (nor has it been demonstrated) to provide a significant benefit for hair.

Jillipoo: Is it really moisturizing or does it merely simulate moisturizing? My hair curls quite a lot when I use it, which makes me think it's getting moisture, but how exactly does aloe vera work?

Marsha: This is completely non-scientific, but I've found that it works as a moisturizer in that it seems to form a film (although it's a very thin, not very stable film) that helps to keep moisture in the hair. I've read that Aloe has a small amount of amino acids in it and this could help explain its film forming qualities.

JC: Most research that I have seen refers most to skin and wound healing. One journal article which was reviewing aloe vera said that it 'seals in moisture due to its high water and mineral content' (Phytotherapy Research, pg 987-1010,2003). It has been used to keep wounds moist and also help break down callusses. I guess on hair it may be a source of water for the hair to keep drawing on? This is a monumental piece of guesswork I must warn you.

Jess: I've found it to be actually moisturizing, but of course in a totally different way than we might think of oils or conditioners being moisturizing. (ie: not creamy like a conditioner or oily like butters.) The humectant properties allow it to attract and retain moisture, as the other ladies have already said. :)

Tiffany: In its role as a humectant, it attracts moisture from the surrounding environment; additionally, since it is a coagulating agent, my thought is its thickened gel state forms a protective layer that helps to hold that existing moisture in. I don't know how much moisture it can actually generate in and of itself, however.

Perry: Aloe vera acts as a humectant. When it is applied it will help to draw moisture to your hair. It has a similar function to ingredients like Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. But it will only work when delivered from a leave-in product since it is water soluble and easily rinsed away when used in rinse-out hair products.

Jillipoo: What kind of hair is likely to benefit most from aloe vera? What kind is likely to not benefit at all?

Marsha: I think all hair types can benefit from Aloe vera, but specifically, fine hair, damaged hair, and dry hair, regardless of curl pattern. If your hair type is extremely protein sensitive, then you would likely see little benefit.

JC: I can't really answer this one scientifically as there is not much research on this subject. I definitely think it is hugely popular among the readers on my blog so my anectodal research would say it is good for the gorgeous super curly/kinky haired women whose locks are prone to dryness. I think many people are opting for natural products along with their natural curls so I think many will try it regardless of hair condition.

Jess: Since it's so light in texture and doesn't build up, any hair type can use it, as it won't weigh down fine hair. Some people are allergic to aloe, so obviously they shouldn't use it.

Tiffany: Anyone with moisture needs should most likely find aloe to be beneficial, although individuals with porosity issues should be careful, as any product ingredient with humectant properties can cause issues by forcing the hair shaft to "drink" moisture out of the atmosphere until it is bloated and swollen.

Perry: Aloe vera is actually an ingredient that cosmetic chemists refer to as a "claims" ingredient. It is not actually put in hair formulas at a level that would (even if it could) have any effect. The only effect that it has is to create a story for the product that consumers find compelling. The "work" of the formula such as moisturizing, cleansing, & conditioning is really done by ingredients that have less compelling names like 'dimethicone', 'cetrimonium chloride', and 'cocamidopropyl betaine'. But aloe vera is a humectant and may have some moisturizing effects when delivered from leave-in products. However, other ingredients are much more effective at a lower cost. From rinse-out products, aloe vera has no effect since it just gets rinsed away with all the other non-substantive ingredients.

The quest for truth

2009-08-09T13:36:00.000-07:00

Forty-plus years ago, we put a man on the moon. How come hair science still remains so much of a mystery?

The little bit of information that does seem to find its way to us, the unwashed masses, is often as much folklore as science. But we have no idea what's true and what isn't. In the end, all we really know is what works for us individually, and making that determination is fraught with confusion and often costly experimentation.

I am always on the hunt for scientific explanations. Not being a scientist, however, makes this adventure a little harrowing at times but seeing as how I don't have the time or inclination to get a degree in cosmetic science (or any kind of science for that matter), I want to rely on people who know what they're talking about.

So I turn to people in the industry who have earned their degrees, read the right research studies, and understand ingredients from a chemical perspective. I recently found JC, who writes The Natural Haven blog. She is a natural-haired lady in the U.K. who is a scientist unaffiliated with any cosmetic companies, and I've learned a couple of things already from her blog. What's also nice about this blog is that you get the feeling JC is sometimes learning along with you. She is curious and knows where to go to get information that answers reader questions. She never makes people feel stupid for not knowing something.

First thing I learned
Cuticles don't swing open and closed like doors. Not only is the movement teeny tiny (which it would have to be since hair is pretty damn thin to begin with), but once the cuticle is opened (such as through heat styling or subjecting hair to water, which is alkaline), it cannot then be closed by the application of some product or substance (such as vinegar or cold water). She does quote a study, however, that indicates certain conditioners can help make the cuticle feel smoother -- and they contain silicones.

This flies in the face of everything we thought we knew, doesn't it?

One reader questioned her about why her hair feels smoother after she uses ACV (apple cider vinegar) rinses. JC doesn't discount the reader's experience at all, and tells her that there might be some other reason why the acidic rinses do this. She confesses, though, that she doesn't know what that reason might be. She says that her research indicates that a substance with a low pH is not responsible for closing a cuticle.

I am amazed that science cannot account for this phenomenon. We can propel astronauts millions of miles into space but the simple behavior of a hair cuticle vexes scientists into silence. (I'm not pointing to JC here -- I'm shaking my fist at cosmetic science in general.) I can't find scientific evidence to support the long-standing belief about shutting down the cuticle with acidic rinses, but if any of you find something, by all means, post a comment and share it! (Much cosmetology-based information is available but this is not the same as scientific studies. I looked in my egghead book about hair and found nothing to support the acidic-rinses-closing-the cuticle theory, but I did find several references to alkaline raising the cuticle.)

Second thing I learned
I also learned that coconut oil applied before wetting the hair can not only help retain whatever protein your hair has, but also minimize how much water your hair takes in. So, if you have a little problem with hair expanding too much after getting wet (porosity), you might find that coconut oil controls that issue for you. I have certainly noticed this to be true of my hair. Ever since I started using coconut oil at night, I do have less frizz than I used to. I knew the coconut oil was responsible but I wasn't entirely sure why. So, thanks, JC!

The Natural Haven is now on my blog list. Maybe it should be on yours, too.

Weird Product Wednesday: Dr. Bronner's Shikakai Conditioning Hair Rinse

2009-07-14T20:56:00.000-07:00

Aren't lemons wonderful? They are so cleansing, so fresh! And of course, my favorite: so natural! Products with lemons? Why, yes, please. I'll take two!

Lemons are great on fish. You can't make lemonade without them. And a little bit rubbed on your silverware will make it shine.

Lemon in hair, however, is quite another matter indeed.

Good students of hair know (by reading Live Curly, Live Free), that acidic solutions help to close the hair's cuticle (making hair smoother) while alkaline solutions raise it (making hair rougher and facilitating the loss of moisture and the entry of dirt, pollution, and other environmental ghouls). The pH of hair is somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 on the pH scale (which goes up to 14). Vinegar has an acidic value of about 3 (depending on the type of vinegar, it ranges from 2.4 to 3.4). This is why vinegar rinses are favored by many of us -- the abrupt change in pH shuts down the cuticle and results in smoother, shinier hair.

Lemon juice's pH is about 2 on the pH scale. "Pffft," you say. "That's almost the same as vinegar." How wrong you would be, my curly princess. Every successive number on the pH scale represents an amount 10 times more (or less, depending on what direction you're moving in) than the previous one. So, lemon is quite a bit more acidic than vinegar.

I knew this going in when I ordered my bottle of Dr. Bronner's Shikakai Citrus Rinse. I thought I could take it. I thought my hair just needed some tough love, courtesy of the Doctor and his insane little ramblings on his products.

The bottle arrived in the mail and I read the directions. I frowned when I read I would have to dilute a couple of capfuls in water -- I prefer products that are perfect and ready to use the moment they leave the bottle. But, I reasoned, I would have had to mix vinegar had I opted to close my cuticle with an ACV (apple cider vinegar) rinse, so I justified the inconvenience with that rationale.

I had read on the NC.com forums that some people had encountered "globs" in this product. One person said she dealt with them by putting the two capfuls of product in a plastic bottle, adding the water, and then shaking up the concoction like a cocktail. Another person said she brought a cup and a whisk into the shower to eliminate the globs. This option did not seem viable to me, as I refuse to bring kitchen utensils into the bathroom. I have boundaries about that sort of thing.

I believed I could just put the product in my plastic cup, hold it under the shower head and let the shower spray break up the globules. Well, it certainly sounds clever, doesn't it?

I underestimated the power of the globules. When the water filled the cup, the globs danced in spiteful revelry. They proceeded to laugh at my attempt to break them up with my fingers. I tried stirring with my fingers to no avail. Finally, concerned that the shower was running and no progress was being made with my hair routine, I just poured the contents of the cup over my head slowly, being careful to make sure not to miss any areas and waiting to feel that luxurious sleekness that the bottle promised.

I was distracted from discovering this sleekness, however, as I watched brown globs go SPLAT on the floor of the tub. The back of my head started to burn in one spot, so I quickly turned my head to catch the shower spray there. But I didn't want to stay too long under the spray or I might lose the benefits of this acidic treatment. Water is alkaline, you know.

Bent over, I ran my fingers through my hair, imagining I felt the "magic" conditioning effects. I also wanted to make sure I'd gotten rid of all the globs that might be stuck there. One hit my knee. Another landed on my toe. A few more landed in the water headed for the drain.

I turned the water off, vaguely aware that the back of my head was still more than a little tingly. Onto my white bath mat fell a brown glob, and when I reached for my cream colored towel, the one that had been hiding on my middle finger smeared itself on the towel. Another glob popped out of my head and flew onto the toilet seat. It mocked me as I stared in horror at it.

These things were like Tribbles. I began to wonder if I'd come home that night and find armies of them in every room of the house.

I scrunched in some Kinky-Curly Curling Custard, then dried my hair with my Curl-Ease towel. That's when I discovered the entire capful of product that resided just above the nape of my neck. My Curl-Ease turned brown where I had touched it to my head.

Clearly, I needed to rinse this area. The burn was becoming uncomfortable and the Curl-Ease was not up to the task of removing it all. But I had styling product in my hair already! Carefully, then, I put my head under the sink and tried to remove the excess Bronner's without rinsing out the KCCC. I was moderately successful. My head no longer burned and I still felt some KCCC in that section of my hair.

I also saw new brown globs -- two on the nearby wall and another on the bath mat. My boyfriend was going to think I was having intestinal problems...

Did I mention it smelled fresh and clean? Yeah, well, it did. And as long as I kept it from running into my eyes, I could enjoy the aroma.

I blow-dried my hair and went to work, self-conscious for the first hour or so that globs would be dotting my collar or sitting on my shoulder seam. These fears were unfounded, I am happy to inform you.

How did my hair look? Pretty good. Better than normal. But by the end of the day, it was decidedly parched. The lemon juice in Dr. Bronner's had gotten the best of me. If my hair could have made a face, it would have been this one:

This product is beyond weird. Maybe I can use it to clean my bathroom.

Polyquat update!

2009-07-13T21:24:00.000-07:00

It seems that NaturallyCurly.com's Curl Chemist has written more about polyquats, and I wasn't aware of it (thanks, ReddishRocks, for clueing me in!). So, for those of you with an interest in this topic, be sure to check out her article here. It contains information about recent studies that have determined which polyquats build up more than others.

Quick summation: Hair smiles upon Polyquaternium 44. It is very conditioning yet easy to remove. Polyquat 10 doesn't condition terribly well and is not that hard to remove (although this conflicts with what my brainy book says), and Polyquats 7 and 11 are a little harder to remove (which my hair already knew).

Many thanks, Curl Chemist!

Get to know Komaza Care

2009-07-08T20:24:00.000-07:00

I'd like to introduce you to Rene, owner and founder of Komaza Care hair products.

Komaza is a line of products designed for and mostly marketed to people with African American (or "ethnic") hair, but like Donna Marie, Caucasians have fallen in love with them, too. The Komaza line is free of sodium lauryl/laureth sulfates, mineral oil, petroleum, and silicones, which of course, makes it a big friend to those who are CG ("Curly Girl"). I must confess up front that I have never tried this line, and yes, I'm as shocked as you are by that oversight! But I've been reading the many raves on the discussion boards at NaturallyCurly.com and I know that this line has lots of fans. I also know that Rene, similar to Marsha at Curl Junkie, is as committed to providing high quality products as she is to delivering attentive, responsive customer service.

Rene started her company because she was fed up with the poor quality and synthetic properties of the products that were available for ethnic hair. Hair and scalp issues were so common that she vowed to develop products that would encourage growth (by keeping pores and follicles unclogged) and not build up on the hair. Rene is also smart enough to offer samples of her products, so if there's something you're curious about, you can just try it out rather than making a big investment.

Enough of my blathering! Let's talk to Rene.

Jillipoo: Do you formulate your own products? If so, what is your method/process? If not, who does it for you?

Komaza Care Rene: Yes, I formulate my own products. I think about what results I want to achieve for the hair type I am creating the product for. I know that each hair type does well with certain ingredients based on the hair type's structure. Some hair types need ingredients that help the hair absorb more moisture and retain it while some do not.

J: Komaza was started to give people with ethnic hair an alternative to the mineral oil-laden and petroleum-based products that have been a staple for them for years, and that's wonderful! You may have seen my recent post on "natural" products. Do you consider Komaza's ingredients natural, and if so, why? Are there some ingredients that you consider very unique to Komaza? Do you feel that there are any synthetic ingredients that are benign or actually good for hair?

KCR: First, I must say, I agree with your Natural Product post. Komaza Care products are considered natural because they are plant based. But you are right, most plant based product have been altered to make them more compatible and "natural" doesn't always mean that they are not harmful. I wouldn't consider any of the ingredients unique to Komaza -- just the formula is unique. There are so many ingredients that work wonderfully for hair, especially if used in a balanced combination.

J: Your hair care as well as business philosophy speaks as much to lifestyle as regimen -- you encourage people to eat well, be kind to themselves, drink plenty of water. Have you seen first-hand that this approach has positive results?

KCR: Yes, most definitely. I am living proof. I know that it works and this is why I encourage it. I changed my lifestyle because it was necessary. It was a gradual thing but I noticed big changes in my hair, my skin, my figure, and most of all my attitude. Health is beautiful and very important. As long as you are healthy you can do and be anything. We spend years neglecting our health because of time and money but then soon learn that it takes twice as much money and time to recover from those years of neglect. It is always best to do the right thing first.

J: According to your website, product recommendations are made according to curl pattern (2, 3, 4 and their gradations). What made you choose this classification system rather than the classic fine/medium/coarse definition that is taught in beauty schools?

KCR: The reason I did not use the classic fine/medium/ coarse system first because our customer base is very hair savvy. Most of them have hair down to a science and understand that their curl pattern matters just as much as the fullness. Also I use this method to help formulate products. Some of us have a looser curl and may want a product that tightens the curl and vice versa. If we at Komaza know the curl pattern as well as the fullness, then we can better serve you.

J: Komaza means "growth" in Swahili. (Do you speak Swahili, by the way?) Obviously, occlusive substances like mineral oil block pores and hair follicles, preventing growth, whereas oils that are compatible with skin and hair do not produce that reaction. I've heard some curlies say, however, that their hair seems to grow *faster* once they start using your products. What do you say to that?

KCR: I wish I was fluent in Swahili but I am not. I am always happy to hear people are getting great results; however, I think that Komaza products provide hair with the essentials to help it grow to its full potential and proper rate.

J: How involved are you in the day to day operations of your company? Do you have customer contact? What kind of experience should customers have when they deal with Komaza and how do you ensure that that happens?

KCR: I am heavily involved with the day to day operations of Komaza. I love customer interaction and get most of my ideas from listening to what people say they need for their hair. The kind of experience a customer should always get when dealing with Komaza, first, is kind honesty. It is most important that we do what is best for your hair rather than to sell our product. We have had some customers completely turned off by this concept and I can understand why; however, it can not waiver our duty to do the right thing. Secondly, everyone should be treated as family or as an old friend with kindness, compassion and respect. God has blessed us with a wonderful staff here. I always hear from customers informing me how wonderful the staff is and how knowledgeable they are. It makes me proud. All of us are constantly being trained in hair care and we follow a simple motto: Treat every one with kindness and compassion even when you don't feel like it or think they don't deserve it.

Thanks for talking with No-Poo Jillipoo, Rene. What a great attitude you have about life and hair!

(Be sure to check out which products best suit your hair at Komaza Care by using the site's hair typing system!)

Like trying to scrape gum off a shoe

2009-07-05T10:21:00.000-07:00

Months ago, I wrote a post about cationic polymers. Before your eyes glaze over, let me just say that cationic polymers are known by most of us as "polyquats." They are the ingredient names that begin with Polyquaternium and then a number. The numbers express some kind of molecular chain organization.

I had written the post because one of my favorite blogs, The Beauty Brains, had raised concern that cationic polymers attached themselves to hair more stubbornly than silicones, and therefore were potentially more troublesome. I did some research and sort of confirmed that they may have been right. But I didn't dig deep enough.

Yesterday, I slogged my way through my trusty copy of Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair by Clarence R. Robbins. This is not light reading, folks. Quite a bit of it is essentially Greek to me, but now and then, I can figure out the message. And with regard to cationic polymers, I learned just enough to develop a bona fide fear of polyquats.

The message is this: cationic polymers do not necessarily penetrate the hair to a great extent, but they are damn near impossible to remove.

Think of polyquats like gum on the sidewalk and your hair like the bottom of a shoe. When those two meet, it's hard to separate them. Things can get ugly.

Now, the book addressed Polyquaternium 10 in most instances. According to Tonya McKay at NaturallyCurly.com, this is one of the more conditioning cationic polymers and is often added to shampoos to impart softness and manageability. But other polyquats -- specifically those with different molecular weights and chemical structures -- are used in styling products because they adhere better (!) and result in a better hold. Polyquat 10 is favored more as a conditioning additive than a styling/holding one.

(For you geeks out there: "Cationic ingredients in general are highly substantive [resist removal by water rinsing] to hair because of hair's low isoelectric point, which is approximately pH 3.67 in cosmetically unaltered hair, and even lower in bleached hair. Therefore, at any pH above the isoelectric, the surface of hair bears a net negative charge, and positively charged (cationic) ingredients are attracted to it." Chapter 7 )

The news is worse for those who have had chemical services done to their hair because the "holes" created by these services create additional opportunities for cationic polymers to attach themselves. So, if your hair is colored or straightened or otherwise messed with by some sort of chemical, you can expect that polyquats will stay with you for quite some time.

So just how long do they hang around? The experiments cited by Robbins indicated that less than 15% of Polyquat 10 was removed from the hair after soaking in distilled water for 30 minutes. (Note that they used distilled water, though. I don't know whether that might make a difference -- seems like it might?) Salt removes cationic polymers better than water, but it's not clear that you could call that removal "effective": "sodium dodecyl sulfate, analogous to a shampoo, was much more effective, removing more than 50% of the polymer in one minute and nearly 70% in 30 minutes." And get this: "Even after a week in 0.1M lanthanum nitrate solution [also a salt], approximately 40% of the polymer was still bound to the hair."

Salt and surfactants combined with cationic polymers decrease the uptake of them to the hair. So, if you find Polyquat 10 in a shampoo or in a styling product that contains magnesium sulfate (salt), the stuff won't stay on your hair as much. But a small amount will remain. Depending on how often and how much you use the polyquat, and what strength it is in the product, you could be looking at days.

Now, the question is: Is this bad? Are cationic polymers blocking moisture like silicones do? That isn't clear, either from the Robbins book or from McKay's article. But anything that has the potential to build up on your hair and be difficult to remove doesn't seem like something to gravitate to.

I realize that I have simplified this topic considerably and that not all polyquats are the same by any stretch of the imagination (or science!). If you are using stylers and/or conditioners with a polyquat or two in them and your hair feels funny or you can't get it clean, maybe this post will help you figure out why.

What an honor!

2009-07-03T17:33:00.000-07:00

NaturallyCurly.com (source of great discussion boards, articles, and Curl Mart) recently polled its thousands of users and asked them to reveal the products, celebrities, blogs, and books that they liked best. From a curl perspective, of course. They are calling it their Best of the Best awards.

Some of my favorite products, such as Kinky Curly Curling Custard and Jessicurl Too Shea, took top honors in the product categories. And Jessica McGuinty won for Inspirational Curly!

I am delighted to report that No-Poo Jillpoo shares the Best Blog title with Curly Nikki! (I'm a big fan of Curly Nikki, so the honor is especially nice for me.) Thanks so much, NaturallyCurly.com and all of you curious curlies out there!

Heads up, Curl Junkie fans!

2009-07-02T06:33:00.001-07:00

A little birdie just told me that Curl Junkie is having a Fourth of July special!

Get 20% off your order of $50 or more!! Type the coupon code "JULY4U" at checkout to get your discount.

Offer is good July 2nd-4th, 2009, and the coupon must be used at checkout to receive checkout.

(So if you've been waiting to buy Curl Junkie's Aloe Fix gel -- the one that's getting all kinds of raves at NaturallyCurly.com -- this might be an excellent opportunity to spring for it!)

Fear of success?

2009-06-21T14:40:00.000-07:00

I've had more bad hair days in the past couple of weeks than I've had in the whole year prior. And I just can't take it anymore! Especially since those bad hair days were all the result of straying from combos that I already know work for me. (By the way, that's not a photo of me. She looks a little better than yours truly of late.)

What the heck goes on in my mind, I wonder, when I decide to forego the tried and true in favor of the unknown? Do you do this too? Maybe I think I'll discover something new. Or maybe I just have a subconscious wish to look less than pretty. The old "fear of success" phenomenon. (Which, according to that link, I actually do have. Awesome.)

So what's to be done? I hereby vow, for at least this coming week, to use only products and combos that I know will work for me. Things I've tried before and really liked. This experimentation stuff has got to stop. I am sabotaging myself!

Plus, I really do need a haircut. That's probably not helping matters.

Anybody else want to go in on this pact with me?

Fun game!

2009-06-20T11:53:00.000-07:00

On L'Oreal's site, there is game that runs too long but is still quite fun -- especially if looking at things (such as hair) under a microscope is your idea of a good time. It's called the Hair Profiler. Enjoy!

Are "natural" products better?

2009-06-13T12:56:00.000-07:00

Gradually over the past decade, perhaps with our enlightenment about the harm we're doing to the planet, we've come to regard all the plants and their existence in our products with great reverence. We want to buy products that are "natural" and look with suspicion on hair care that is devoid of herbs, flowers, and obscure, lesser known oils.

What does "natural" mean, anyway?

I'm serious. That was not a rhetorical question. I want to know. If you had to define it, what would you say?

I've come up with some reasons why I suspect people think so-called natural products are better.

No Preservatives
I've addressed this before but it bears repeating. Preservatives are not universally bad and in fact, without them, you would have a head full of bacteria. Bacteria is natural, too. Does that make it good?

Natural products use preservatives, too, and sometimes, they are not straight from nature. Paula Begoun, author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me has this to say: "...natural or plant-based preservatives have extremely poor antimicrobial or antifungal properties. Complications for skin due to a product being contaminated are a serious consideration when it comes to how a product is preserved."

Concerned about parabens? Even the Environmental Working Group's Cosmetics Database lists most of them as having a score below 5 (the group's highest score, which indicates the highest level of danger or toxicity, is 10). And the EWG, considered alarmist by some, overly cautious by others, could not possibly be accused of underestimating the danger of any ingredient. So, if methylparaben and sodium methylparaben achieve scores of 8, these may be cause for concern if you use a lot of products that contain this ingredient, but do you know how much of this stuff you'd have to use in order to be worried? Tons! There's no way you could use and/or absorb enough to adversely affect your health. Better you should worry about getting hit by a bus or slipping on a banana peel.

Mother Nature is Our Friend
Well, yes, often she is. Except when she isn't. Some examples:

- Hurricane Katrina
- Belladonna
- Smallpox
- Poison ivy

I hope you see where I'm going. Not everything that is of the earth is good for us. Lots of things are, though, and we would hope that those would be the things that end up in our products. Is this true? Sometimes.

In the Paula Begoun article I mentioned above, she lists some of the compounds found in nature that are good for our skin and/or hair -- and some of the ones that are not so good (such as lavender oil, lemon, rose, and sage). Tea tree oil is another one that's been getting some attention lately, and according to Dr. Benabio's Dermatology Blog, there's reason to be cautious with this substance. Although the article is about the efficacy of tea tree oil used to treat acne, he raises some excellent points about how harsh it can be for many people.

Natural or Organic Equates to Purity
No, it doesn't.

Did you know that a cosmetics company can claim anything is natural or organic? And that they can do so because there are no FDA guidelines or definitions for either word (in the cosmetic industry)? This means that if a product is 90 percent water, which is "natural," a company can claim that its product is natural. Even "organic."

Most of us cannot step out into the backyard, pick a plant, and apply it directly to our bodies and wait for beauty to happen. Herbs and plants and oils need to undergo various processes to either make the ingredient compatible with other ingredients or to extract what is actually useful from a plant. These processes almost always involve the use of chemicals. Are all chemicals bad? Hell no. In fact, many of the unpronounceable ingredients in hair care products are responsible for making our hair manageable, beautiful, and better conditioned. (Case in point: Cetyl alcohol, which is not a drying alcohol but an emulsifier and emollient -- a "fatty alcohol" -- yet companies such as Aubrey Organics list it as "coconut fatty acid base" because it sounds less "scientific" than what it really is. Without a lab, this ingredient would not exist. Is that natural? You tell me.)

Here, at last, is my point: If you are using "natural" hair care products because you think they are better for your hair, you are probably deluding yourself. There is no evidence to prove that they are any better for you, or work any better than synthetic or non-organic or unnatural products/ingredients. By all means use them if you like them (I use several myself), but do not be fooled by the hype.

I leave you with this from the Organic Consumers Association:

The industry’s hopes for eternal youth are validated by stunning 39 percent growth in the natural and organic cosmetic sector annually. In one survey conducted by Health, 83 percent of responding consumers indicated that they would rather use all natural body products, though more than half could not define “natural” or “organic.”

"Natural" products are likely doing more to ease your ecological conscience than they are doing for your hair.

I encourage your comments on this. Did I miss any of the reasons why you choose natural over synthetic? If so, tell me.

Addendum: I found this story at Cosmetics Design a day after writing this post. It talks about how companies are getting sued by making false claims about being natural and/or organic. What's even more interesting is that the Federal Trade Commission is putting together guidelines to help companies avoid deceptive claims, and even though there is already a set of guidelines out there, the article says most companies do not even know they exist. Little wonder the greenwashing business is thriving!

Keeping it real

2009-06-08T19:11:00.000-07:00

I hear a lot of whining (some of it's from me but let's ignore that for the moment) about product performance. Some of the familiar refrains go something like:

"This product doesn't seem to achieve Holy Grail (HG) status."

"This product failed to make me look like Melina Kanakaredes."

"This product worked for people on the discussion board I visit but it didn't work for me. I must have gotten a bad bottle!"

Time for a reality check. It's my contention that most of us are either not honest about our hair or we expect too much of products. Let's take a little quiz, shall we? Give yourself one point for every "yes" answer.

1. Do you mix or layer more than two products (yes, this includes leave-in)?
2. Have you ever used a product marketed for hair that was different than your own?
3. Are you especially frugal with application? Or especially generous?
4. Do you see photos of other people's hair and think it looks like yours, only to have a friend point out that it doesn't resemble your hair at all?
5. Do you drift in and out of the Curly Girl regimen, tossing in silicones willy nilly and using sulfate shampoos here and there?

If you got more than three points in that test, pour yourself a glass of water -- it's time for you to swallow a large and uncomfortable reality pill.

Mixing too many products.
Did you know that when a product formulation is created, it is created as a stand-alone product? Manufacturers have no idea that you use a conditioner, a leave-in, a gel, and a serum in conjunction with their product. In other words, you are introducing four different opportunities for unpleasant product interactions if you are using that kind of lineup.

When you buy a new product, use it alone first. See what it does. If it lacks a certain oomph that you know another product in your arsenal can deliver, go ahead and combine them. But if the combo isn't good, it may be unfair to blame the new product. After all, if you're a combiner, then you probably don't like any of your products by themselves. Why slam the new one? What you may be experiencing is simply a failure of these various ingredients to play nice together. It doesn't necessarily mean that the new product sucks. Maybe it just can't carry out its mission because of the competing ingredients you've piled onto your head.

Buying something not designed for your hair.
My hair is fine. With the right products, it can look normal but I know that no amount of smoke and mirrors will change the fact that my hair is intrinsically fine. So why would I buy a product that is designed for thick, coily hair? Isn't that a lot like dating a guy who tells you he's Trouble? Step aside and keep walking if you know what's good for you.

Every so often, you might get lucky when you try a product that isn't made for your hair type, but by and large, second-guessing a manufacturer's recommendation will prove frustrating. Plus, you'll be wasting money. (I know that kathymack is going to take issue with this comment but that's okay. She is an exception to most hair rules, but that doesn't mean you will be, too!)

Wrong quantities.
Here again, at least start with the recommended amount and then adjust it to your tastes. If you slather the stuff on and then complain that it weighed your hair down, didn't you invite that situation yourself? Alternatively, if you used a pea-size amount when a dollop was required, don't complain when the product "didn't do anything."

"But I know what amounts are usually good for me," you might be saying. Yes, you probably do -- but you have never used this product before and you have no idea whether it's like other products. Follow directions first, adjust later.

Not being honest about your hair.
About a year ago, I had a sobering experience. A girl with gorgeous, wavy-curly hair joined NaturallyCurly.com and I instantly recognized her as a hair twin.

What I failed to realize, however, was that we would have been twins if this were 1979. As much as it pains me to admit it, my hair is different now than it was in college, but some part of my brain hadn't fully accepted that fact when I saw the photos of that girl.

Ditto if you've ever just not been honest about what your hair will and will not do. Some of us will never have frizz-free hair. Some of us will never have shiny curls. Figure out what your hair will and will not do, and don't let a sexy advertisement convince you otherwise. Better yet, find the characteristic of your curls that makes them unique and play that up rather than bending your hair's will to some external image it can never match.

Doing it all half-assed.
You! The sheepish one! You know what I'm talking about. You're the one who piles on the polyquats, randomly uses silicones, and shampoos on no particular schedule, and then wonders why your hair won't "behave." Pick a plan and stick with it. Your plan can be varied but it has to be that way because you've determined that your hair responds to it, not because you just feel like mixing things up every few days. The "My religion won't allow me to throw products away" excuse is not valid, by the way. If products don't work for you, there's no sense in keeping them. Give them to friends, or put them on the swap board. Just keep them out of your hair.

And finally, keep in mind that everybody has their own notions of how they like their hair to look. Some curlies like super-defined curls that look like they were formed with a curling iron while others prefer to look like they just returned from the beach. Some have a frizz tolerance of zero while others accept some frizz as part of being curly. "Good curls" are entirely personal and entirely subjective. Expectations vary wildly and one curly's great experience may indeed be another's trauma.

Keep it real, people. But most of all, keep it simple.

Clever take on coils and curls

2009-06-06T15:45:00.000-07:00

I was tipped off to this video and thought it was pretty cute

The Coil Review is an excellent resource for natural coily and curly textured hair. I hadn't been aware of the site prior to being contacted about it, but now that I've roamed around the site a bit and gotten a sense of what it offers, I'm impressed. Not only have they got good product and style-related content, but some excellent editorials, as well. Because let's face it, being curly carries some emotional and cultural baggage in addition to frizz potential.

Weird Product Wednesday: Lock & Twist Pudding

2009-06-03T21:50:00.000-07:00

Many people sing the praises of Donna Marie's Lock & Twist Pudding. Indeed, owner Ayanna Henderson says it is the line's "signature" product. I bought my jar back in late October 2008, and to this day, I am still a member of the "I don't get it" club.

Maybe this is one of those "ethnic" products that really does work best on hair that is different from mine. Some people use it to set their hair in twists, which I don't do. Others just use a little of this product and get nice results (which, admittedly, I did a few times in cold weather, although my results were not consistent). With all due respect to Ayanna and all the people who groove on Lock & Twist, I find this product weird on multiple levels.

1. The smell. What is it? I can't even begin to describe it. Not exactly unpleasant but certainly not an aroma you'd caress on your pulse points prior to a night of seduction. (I just asked my boyfriend to describe it, knowing he is never at a loss for words, and he said: "Fake flowers. Like it's trying too hard.") And as with all smells that you could really live without, this one lingers.

2. The label. I guess labeling is a difficult process for smaller companies, because Lock and Twist's is not the first one I've seen that's barely legible. (Karen's Body Beautiful seems to have a similar problem.) Why choose a font that's arty or undecipherable? And why have it wrap around a wide jar so that readers need to follow the text with a finger to stay on track? The label on this jar is not easy to read and that compounds the next issue, as you will soon see.

3. The ingredients. I do understand why a company would want to experiment with ingredients in order to fine-tune a product. But when I buy a product based on what the company website says it contains and then my jar says something different, or I hear from others that their jar's listing didn't match the website, I immediately question the company's commitment to accurate labeling. I'm not accusing Donna Marie of trying to pull a fast one on its customers, but there was much discussion at NaturallyCurly.com for a while about whether Lock & Twist contained glycerin. My jar doesn't list any but the company website says:

Deionized water, aloe vera gel, carbomer, kokum butter, mango butter, sweet almond oil, glycerin, flax seed gel extract, hibiscus extract, carrot seed extract, burdock root extract, agave nectar extract, silver citrate, potassium sorbate and natural fragrance.

I guess I should believe my jar (if I could read it). It doesn't list glycerin. The product behaves, though, as if it there were glycerin in it. It bugs me that there's a discrepancy and that the only way I can really know for sure is to bring the product to a lab, a task that virtually never appears on my to-do list.

4. The shelf life. One of the wonders in this modern world is the miracle of preservatives. Now before you get all squirmy and/or huffy at the very thought of preservatives, please note that without them, your magic potions would grow mold and allow bacteria to multiply on your person. Mold and bacteria run counter to beauty, I'm sure you'd agree.

Lock & Twist uses "natural" preservatives and there's nothing wrong with that. It relies on silver citrate and potassium sorbate to keep little blue meanies at bay. It's important to know, however, that these particular preservatives yield a product shelf life of about a year.

I don't want to alarm anybody but although I have no evidence of mold or bacteria, the appearance of the product has most definitely changed since I bought it. This is rarely a good sign. I don't know whether you can tell from this photo, but contents have separated and it looks a little more mottled than it did when it first arrived at my house. Now, it has been sitting idle for probably two months, and maybe a good stir would bring it back to normal, but if that kind of product behavior is normal, it would behoove the company to disclose that on the label. Otherwise, as a cautious consumer, I'm thinking maybe something has gone awry in this jar and I'm not likely to continue using it.

In summary, if you meet the following criteria:

- you lock or twist your hair as a styling method
- you have excellent eyesight
- you don't need your products to smell pretty
- you use your products in less than a year

then Lock & Twist Pudding may just be the product for you.

Hey! My hair grew!

2009-06-02T21:44:00.000-07:00

So I was uploading a few photos to my Fotki account tonight and I noticed that since March 2008, my hair has grown quite a lot, even though it hasn't seemed that way to me as I look at it in the mirror every day.

Here it is 14 months ago:

And then here it is as of last month:

The color is different too. Hmmm... How did that happen?

The curl is tighter, too. I don't understand how that happened, either.

Is there a cure for product junkieism?

2009-05-24T09:56:00.000-07:00

Also known as PJism, this condition is rampant and growing among women in general and with curly-haired women in particular. Treatment is still in development: cures have been elusive and there is no 12-step program for this problem.

First, though, let's define this condition and its victim. A Product Junkie (PJ) is someone who keeps purchasing products despite:

* lack of funds
* an abundance of existing product
* hair that already looks great
* having found products that are compatible with her hair

Most PJs recognize that their conduct is a little abnormal. For example, they know that other people do not:

* hide their purchases from other family members in an attempt to avoid the inevitable intervention
* buy products they know will not work for them
* repurchase products that failed to work for them

Oddly, Product Junkies are not ashamed of their buying habits. On the contrary, many are proud of their overflowing medicine cabinets and wear their unbridled consumerism like a badge of honor, especially when talking to others who are similarly afflicted. If you have a PJ in your life, you would be wise to note this personality trait because it means your attempts to alter their behavior will be futile. The average PJ does not wish to change. Trying to modify their behavior is like putting lipstick on a pig: it doesn't work and it only annoys the pig.

If you are a PJ, take note: nobody believes your halfhearted promises to go straight and stick with a handful of products. When you use the swap board at naturallycurly.com just to ensure that no company name appears on the package that gets sent to your house, you aren't fooling anybody who lives with you.

When your purse is extra heavy, nobody thinks it's because your wallet has more money or you've acquired a few new keys -- they know you're carrying around a new jar of something to eradicate frizz in the afternoon.

And when you're in a drugstore, it's obvious that the hair care aisle is your real destination, even if you force yourself to meander there after picking up ant traps and tampons.

Everybody knows. And I know too, because I'm right behind you in that aisle.

Jessicurl speaks! (Final installment)

2009-05-23T12:43:00.000-07:00

I saved this one for last because it's all about curl acceptance, a topic that's near and dear to all our hearts. After this post, I'll be writing more on this, but I wanted to leave you all with uplifting words from Jess of Jessicurl in this final installment of the interview.

Listen to Jess talk about the importance of accepting whatever grows out of our heads!

Previous installments of the Jessicurl interview:

Listen to Jess give advice on starting a business.

Listen to Jess talk about why it's important to her to do more for the world than make curly hair pretty.

Listen to Jess talk about her role in the company.

Listen to Jess talk about how to choose products and why product performance may change for you over time.

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Weird Product Wednesday: Rockin' Ringlets

2009-05-20T20:30:00.000-07:00

In keeping with our Jessicurl theme of the past week and a half, I thought I'd cover a product that I have a love/hate relationship with: Rockin' Ringlets.

How do I love thee, Rockin' Ringlets?

Well, first off, you are made of flax seeds and we all know what a friend flax seed is to curly hair. Mwah!

Secondly, you are unlike any other product in look, consistency, or aroma. You break the mold for products and I am a sucker for originality. For this, I kiss you.

Next, you give me beautiful, clumpy curls that never look fake or stiff or overdone. I could hug you for this alone.

But how do I not love you, Rockin' Ringlets?

Well, first off, I have to remember to shake your bottle before use, and for some reason this action is not always intuitive. Especially first thing in the morning. Over time, though, I have accepted this charming quirk of yours.

But the real reason I do not love you is because you possess something that my hair rejects: magnesium sulfate. Oh, I know; magnesium sulfate is just plain ol' salt and for many people, that ingredient makes curly hair curl and stay curled. I don't hate you for being salty -- I just wish magnesium sulfate didn't give me wicked halo frizz after one day of use.

Sigh.

Why can't hair care be a slam dunk? Early in my CG journey, I started using Jessicurl. All was well for the first few weeks and I was so delighted to have found what was clearly my holy grail product line. Then the halo frizz started. Mild at first, but after a few more weeks, the halo frizz was no longer curly but straight! I hadn't seen my hair without curl since my last trip to Arizona (where the dew point was so low that my entire head of hair had no curl at all and I am not exaggerating). So, I knew that something in Rockin' Ringlets was drying me out, and it didn't take long to figure out, after reading about magnesium sulfate in the "Ingredients Philosophy" on Jessicurl's site, that that was the culprit. These days, I can only use it once a week or so. (There is magnesium sulfate in Confident Coils, too, but Jess says there's much more in Rockin' Ringlets.)

Tiffany recently pointed out that the magnesium sulfate issue might afflict porous hair like mine more than non-porous hair. Her theory is that magnesium sulfate can build up in the pockets and holes that characterize porous hair, thereby giving it more opportunity to dry the hair out. Sounds reasonable.

As Jess stated in her interview here recently, mixing Rockin' Ringlets with either some oil or even Aloeba may help to relieve some of the magnesium sulfate troubles for those of us who experience that reaction. (I haven't tried this yet but intend to soon.)

So, for me, Rockin' Ringlets is a weird product because when it's good, my hair looks smashing but when it's bad, I want to smash my hair.

(If you're not sure what Rockin' Ringlets will do to your hair, either buy some on the swap boards at NaturallyCurly.com or buy a trial pack from Jessicurl.)

Jessicurl speaks! (Part Six)

2009-05-19T18:50:00.000-07:00

Because she is an entrepreneur, Jess is often asked for advice about starting a business. In this segment of the interview, she provides lots of helpful tips that would help anybody, not just someone wanting to start a curl business.

Listen to Jess give advice on starting a business.

Previous installments of the Jessicurl interview:

Listen to Jess talk about why it's important to her to do more for the world than make curly hair pretty.

Listen to Jess talk about her role in the company.

Listen to Jess talk about how to choose products and why product performance may change for you over time.

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Jessicurl speaks! (Part Five)

2009-05-17T11:14:00.000-07:00

This might actually be my favorite segment of the interview. If you've ever spent any time at the Jessicurl site, you'll know that Jess is extremely committed to public service -- everything from Smile Train to Women Around the World to donating her own hair to Locks of Love. When you buy from Jessicurl, your money doesn't just go into Jess's pocket, it goes to support worthy causes worldwide.

What if bigger companies did what Jess is doing? And what if all of them did it? Maybe there would be fewer problems in the world that exist for lack of financial support.

Listen to Jess talk about why it's important to her to do more for the world than make curly hair pretty.

Previous installments of the Jessicurl interview:

Listen to Jess talk about her role in the company.

Listen to Jess talk about how to choose products and why product performance may change for you over time.

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Jessicurl speaks! (Part Four)

2009-05-15T19:07:00.001-07:00

Anyone who has ever written to Jessicurl and received a response directly from Jess herself probably knows that she is actively involved in her business. As her business grows, though, she is having to prioritize how and where she spends her time. As marketing demands increase, she has to adapt from a purely customer service person to an emissary and public relations person for Jessicurl.

Listen to Jess talk about her role in the company.

Previous posts in this interview series:

Listen to Jess talk about how to choose products and why product performance may change for you over time.

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Jessicurl speaks! (Part Three)

2009-05-13T20:16:00.000-07:00

(I'll be skipping Weird Product Wednesday today to bring you more of the Jessica McGuinty interview. WWW will return next week, though, so stay tuned....)

In this installment of the interview, listen to Jess talk about how to choose products and why product performance may change for you over time.

Previous posts in this interview series:

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Jessicurl speaks! (Part Two)

2009-05-10T15:47:00.001-07:00

These portions of the Jessicurl interview are about ingredients: what is "natural", why Jessicurl products will never contain silicones, and how she developed hair cleansers without sulfates.

Listen to Jessicurl's stance on "natural" claims

Listen to Jess discuss silicones and sulfates

Jessicurl speaks! (Part One)

2009-05-07T23:42:00.000-07:00

As regular readers of this blog will note, I've been interviewing owners of small, curly hair product companies to celebrate and showcase the ones who know what's in the products they sell (and why) and the ones who truly demonstrate respect for their customers. So far, we've heard from the delightful Marsha at Curl Junkie and Ayanna at Donna Marie.

This series would not be complete, however, without checking in with Jessica McGuinty, owner and founder of Jessicurl. I have a special place in my heart for this line because it was the first one I tried after going CG and I absolutely loved it -- until the magnesium sulfate caused me to have to cut back and use the stylers less often. But I still use the Aloeba conditioner several times a week -- I truly love it. Jess started her company in 2002 and traces her, um, roots to the discussion boards at NaturallyCurly.com, where she began making flax seed gel in her kitchen based on what she was learning about ingredients that worked for curly hair. Other curlies wanted to try her concoction and soon afterward, Jess started her own company, where that modest but potent flax seed gel became the venerable Rockin' Ringlets! You can read more about Jess and her story here.

Jess agreed to be interviewed but after seeing my questions, she asked if she could answer them verbally in order to give them the attention she felt they required. For those of you who've never met Jess, she is an engaging, personable, fun-loving, and articulate person (with great hair) with a gift for making people feel at ease. She was in San Francisco for a few days in April, so we got together and did the interview in person. And then we celebrated the success of the interview by going out for a beer. I tell you, we bloggers live a glamorous life!

Jess is such a generous person that she put the interview on her voice recorder then uploaded it in pleasantly bite-sized portions so that you can listen to all the pieces or only those that you think will be relevant or meaningful to you.

Part One: Listen to Jess talk about how products get developed and made, why you can't please everybody, and what to do if magnesium sulfate is troublesome for you.

Weird Product Wednesday: Afro Detangler

2009-05-06T21:07:00.000-07:00

What smells pretty, is a popular leave-in among curly heads, and is only sold by the half-gallon? Why, it's Afro Detangler!

This product is yet another one that sort of slipped by me until throngs of people were using it. I finally looked up, said "Huh? Wha'd I miss?" and asked kathymack for a sample. Because ain't no way I was going to shell out $49 for a product I'd never tried. And that's some kinda confidence, don't you think, for a company to sell a product only in an impossibly large container? Based on the raves at NC.com, though, maybe that confidence is justified.

Plus, who the hell needs a product that takes up as much space as a half-gallon of milk?

Now, even though I am a bit of a lemming when it comes to product experimentation, I did want to see what was in this stuff before I committed even to a sample. Here are the ingredients:

Active Ingredients: water, avocado/mango/shea butter, vitamin E, avocado oil, lecithin, green tea extract, orange extract, CitroZine™ (Organic) as a preservative, natural fragrance.

"Well, that's a pretty nice list," I thought, eyebrows raised in interest as I PayPaled kathymack for a sample. I love avocado oil and shea butter as nighttime treatments (I sleep in one of them or coconut oil every night). Vitamin E is a known moisturizer and anti-oxidant for hair. And I didn't see anything on that list that I didn't understand, so I went ahead and ordered.

It smells very pretty indeed. Not overpowering or weird, just pretty. And if I didn't have fine hair, I think I would be in love with this product.

But alas, I do have fine hair, and all those oils make my clumps skinny. I like my clumps fat.

Thick, coarse hair is bound to love Afro-Detangler, and probably medium hair will, too. And although it did not weigh my hair down as I suspected it might, it did react on my hair like straight oil does, and that is to give me many smaller curls instead of fewer big curls.

Does anyone else experience this with products containing oils? I don't know the science behind the phenomenon but I do know that although my hair feels conditioned and soft with a small amount of the right kind of oils, it also separates into a bijillion curls. I guess that would be okay if that's the look I was going for, but most days, that isn't what I want.

Also, Afro-Detangler absorbed into my hair very quickly, as if it contained aloe vera. I wonder what ingredient made it do that?

So, I don't dislike this product at all. In fact, if it came in a container that didn't require two hands to wield, I'd probably buy some to use on occasion because it does condition beautifully and I can see why people would love it as a leave-in. For me, though, it just doesn't deliver the kind of curls I like.

So what do you think? Do you love it? What does it do for you?

Look no further for hair knowledge

2009-05-03T09:46:00.000-07:00

Have you been trying to figure out what products to buy? Are you confused by how your hair behaves? Do you wish you had a little science on your side to get answers to your questions?

Tiffany Anderson (aka StruttsWife at naturallycurly.com) has written a book!

Tiffany has been dispensing information from NC.com for years and cutting curly hair for even longer than that. She understands that not all hair responds to the same products and she knows why. And now, with her book, you can understand it too.

This is a fantastic book -- I know because I had the honor of being one of the editors for it! It is without question the resource that so many of us have been crying out for.

It's called Live Curly, Live Free: Unlocking the Secrets Behind the World of Beautiful Curls and guess what? You can get your hands on it instantly because it's an e-book! Download it today. You will not be sorry.

Weird Product Wednesday: Aubrey Organics Mandarin Magic

2009-04-29T20:43:00.000-07:00

"Hey, wait a minute," you're saying. "Doesn't Jillipoo like this product?"

Well, yes. And no. Therefore, it's weird and qualifies for the Wednesday treatment.

When I read some of the threads over at NaturallyCurly.com, I am frequently struck by how instinctive product application and combining is to some women. They are inspired cooks in a kitchen, knowing mysteriously and miraculously that a dash of this thing will be the perfect complement to that other thing. Meanwhile, just as I need a cookbook to navigate the creation of a meal, so, too, do I need hand-holding and advice when it comes to products.

I am the type of person who buys something and uses it. Whatever it does, it does. If the bottle tells me to use it a certain way, that's what I do. That is, until I read about some intrepid soul who has combined it with something else or applies it to sopping wet hair or only uses it on dry hair. Then, I will give that idea a whirl. You might say I am wholly unoriginal and completely uncreative when it comes to product usage.

That is my shame.

But I've experimented a little with Mandarin Magic now, thanks to the trail blazed by others, and I'm ready to report my results. I should also say that I bought this product because I'd read that it was a kind of substitute for Kinky Curly Curling Custard. The comparison intrigued me -- because who can get enough of the wonders of KCCC? -- so I had to give Mandarin Magic a try.

Mandarin Magic used by itself
When I first get them, I often like to see what stylers do when unaided by other products. It establishes a baseline. It helps me know what I can pair them with to counteract some features or play up others. (Yes, okay, I do think about combining, but my repertoire is pretty limited, I think.)

Mandarin Magic gave me volume as well as lovely, natural-looking clumps. My hair felt soft, pretty, and productless. I was hopeful! KCCC doesn't do this when used alone (at least, for me it doesn't) so this aspect of Mandarin Magic had me very excited. I also got big banana ringlets by the end of the day and I love that.

I did get a little frizz, though, so I knew I'd probably have to pair it with a gel for the next round.

Mandarin Magic and B5 Design Gel
I figured that since both were Aubrey products, they'd play nice together. I was right. This was a great combo -- it gave me the same fullness, curls and volume I got before only this time, the curls had more definition for a longer period of time and there was less frizz.

In case you're curious, my Excel spreadsheet indicates that I used Robert Craig conditioner as my rinse-out and Aloeba as my leave-in. I applied the MM and then the B5.

Donna Marie Lock & Twist and Mandarin Magic
I mixed these together and scrunched them in. The dew point was ideal for Lock & Twist, so I felt confident it would work well. But the combo was not a success, and looking back on it, I think it's because I didn't follow it with gel. I lost definition soon after scrunch-out and had a fair amount of frizz by day's end. Boooooo.

Really, I should have known better. I need gel.

Donna Marie Honey & Aloe Jelly, Mandarin Magic, and Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee
To be fair, the Honey & Aloe Jelly never worked well for me, and I think I paired it with this because I thought the MM would kick its ass. And I thought the BRHG would keep frizz to a minimum.

What I got were decent curls (thanks to the MM) but a fair amount of frizz (thanks to the damn honey in the jelly). I think the BRHG just looked at the combo and shrugged. I can only imagine what the frizz situation would have been without the BRHG, though. Yikes.

Karen's Body Beautiful Super Silky, Mandarin Magic, and Max Green Alchemy Styling Gel
I tried this because kathymack mentioned that she often used Mandarin Magic to distribute other products better. This seemed like quite an inspired idea to me so I tried it with Super Silky, mixing two squirts of SS with about twice as much MM. Understanding by this point that gel was important, I scrunched in some MGA Styling Gel, one of my favorites. The dew point was 23 that day, so I thought the Super Silky was a good product to use (no glycerin).

Overall, my hair was on the flat side, I had a small amount of frizz fairly soon, and although my curls started strong, they fell as the day went on. I like all of these products separately, but they didn't seem to like one another. Perhaps it was the Super Silky -- I always have better luck when I use this product on dry hair.

In any event, this is not a combo I'd attempt again.

Confident Coils, Mandarin Magic, Kinky Curly Spiral Spritz
Nope. Not a good combo: stringy curls that were a little frizzy by day's end. Confident Coils is a great product and I've been having luck with it as a weather protector for some time, so I think it's blameless in this scenario.

Kinky Curly Spiral Spritz, however, is another story. Of the four times I've used this product, I only had one good experience, and I think it was a fluke that I can never duplicate. Spraying it on results in an undistributed mess so you really have to spray it into your palm and use it like a serum. It sort of performs like a gel on wet hair but not as well. And I think we've already established that I need gel.

So, class, what have we learned from these Mandarin Magic experiments? First, team it with gel. And second, keep it simple. This is a very unique product and certainly worth keeping in your stash. There aren't many products out there that make your hair feel soft and natural but this is one of them. I also love what it does for my curls. Thumbs up on this baby!

How about you? Got any great combos using Mandarin Magic? Any usage tips?

And now ... Donna Marie!

2009-04-27T21:46:00.000-07:00

It's not often that a small personal care product line takes off so quickly after it launches, but Donna Marie has done just that. From the moment the buzz started at NaturallyCurly.com, curly-headed people have been discovering and appreciating this unique line of natural hair products. President and Developer Ayanna Henderson took some time out of running her business -- and planning her wedding! -- to answer some questions about her terrific products.

Jillipoo: Why did you start your business? What did you feel curly-haired people were not getting from the marketplace that you could provide?

Ayanna Henderson: Donna Marie was born after dealing with my own frustrations as a curly girl. For a long time, I wore my hair permed because I was conditioned to believe from a very early age that straight hair was more acceptable. Although I was very familiar with naturally kinky, curly and wavy hair because I have been a natural hairstylist since the age of 13, I never actually embraced my own natural texture. After graduating from college and during cosmetology school, I decided to let my natural hair grow out and stop the perms. After completing the “big chop” (i.e. cutting the permed hair off and allowing the natural hair to emerge), I had no idea how to “rock” my natural hair and maintain the curl pattern I saw when my hair was wet. After countless failed attempts at using commercial, synthetic gels and styling products created for looser curl patterns, I started experimenting with natural alternatives. My mother had a basement full of herbs that she stored for soap making. She never used them, so I decided to use my resources and experiment with her huge supply. I found out then that there are natural ways to create styling aids, and I continued to experiment until I discovered a formula that actually produced the results I sought! I tested my concoctions on my clients, and after continued encouragement from my testers, I launched my product line.

J: Donna Marie is only a year old and yet has become a popular favorite with curlies. What do you think accounts for your success?

A.H.: Great question! I still cannot believe the amount of curlies that have expressed love for the Donna Marie product line in such a short amount of time and I am so grateful that the products have made a difference for so many women. Our commitment to providing natural products that are effective and free from harsh synthetics and cheap fillers and our commitment to quality customer service has been essential to the success of Donna Marie thus far.

J: How involved are you in the creation of your products? Are you active in the formulation of them?

A.H.: I formulate, manufacture, package and deliver every single product in the Donna Marie line! I do consult with a chemist during the formulation stage to ensure quality.

J: I've noticed that some of your products have changed ingredients even in the brief time they've been around. What prompted the changes?

A.H.: Two products in our line have changed ingredients slightly due to an overwhelming number of requests from customers. Even though there is a long period of research, experimentation, and testing involved with creating a new product, there are still customers who may not be satisfied. I listen to my customers and if enough people request a change, I will try to accommodate them, as long as the change does not affect product performance negatively. I have also removed ingredients and replaced them with more natural alternatives to enhance the performance of our products.

J: Your product line is targeted to women of color, and yet loads of white girls are quite fond of them too! Has this surprised you?

A.H.: I love to hear that ALL women with all hair types can benefit from using Donna Marie products! I originally developed the line to provide solutions for women with all curl types, but specifically formulated the products for women with tighter curls and kinks because like myself, these women, were unrepresented in the commercial curly hair care market. Knowing that there is an increasing popularity among women with looser curl patterns is incredible because this finding has motivated me to create more products that provide more solutions for all hair types.

J: If you had to pick one product that really sets Donna Marie apart from the crowd -- a signature product, if you will -- what would it be and why?

A.H.: The Lock and Twist Pudding is an incredible product because although it was created for molding twists and locks, while providing a flexible, soft hold, it also serves as a curl enhancer for practically all curl types! Also, the product is 99 percent natural -- truly a rare find and my favorite product in the line!

J: As a small company that makes its own products, what kinds of challenges do you face that consumers may not be aware of? (Availability of ingredients, distributor problems, regulatory issues, staffing, etc.)

A.H.: I create every product 100 percent by hand with no staff. Occasionally I will ask family members to assist me with large orders. Unfortunately, as orders increase, processing time increases, causing occasional delays in delivery. Even though the processing time is disclosed on the website, consumers do not usually take into consideration that our products are hand-made fresh daily and processing is longer than commercially manufactured product lines. The biggest challenge I face currently is trying to produce the products in bulk to decrease the overall processing time so that delivery times can be faster.

J: What's on the horizon for you and Donna Marie? Where do you see the company in five or ten years?

A.H.: I plan to launch three new products this summer and plan to expand into a full body, skin and hair line. Also, my long-time dream of opening a salon providing natural hair and skin services will be a reality in the near future!

Thank you so much, Jill, for the opportunity to let you and readers know more about the Donna Marie line!

Thank you, Ayanna, for letting us in to see the inner workings at Donna Marie. It's great to learn about a company whose owner is so involved in the operations of the company and so involved in the selection of ingredients!

Cuticle killers

2009-04-25T17:24:00.000-07:00

I've been curling up with my new book and in between totally incomprehensible sentences designed for chemically literate people, there are some excellent insights and observations, many of which I'll be sharing here during the coming weeks and months.

Today, though, I'll start with some basic stuff that may actually surprise you -- like the many ways in which your hair cuticle can suffer damage. (The cuticle is the shingle-like outer coating of your hair. Healthy cuticles lie flat and have minimal "shingles" broken. Unhealthy cuticles are chipped, exposing the hair shaft to further damage from the loss of lipids or even protein.)

1. Shampoo

The mere manipulation of the hair during this process is enough to erode the cuticle to a significant extent. I had always thought that wet hair was more pliable than dry, thereby possibly adding some protection but wet hair is quite susceptible to damage, says author Clarence Robbins, who provides several studies in which this phenomenon is repeatedly proven. When the hair is wet, it stretches while you shampoo it, and between the stretching and the abrasion of rubbing against others hairs, you get chipped cuticles.

Wet hair also swells up a bit as it absorbs water. So, even though it feels slicker to you, the cuticle is actually raised and if you are too rough during the shampoo process (no matter what kind of shampoo you're using), you are contributing to cuticle breakage.

I found this interesting because even though I do not use shampoo, the way I wash my hair with my Suave Naturals conditioner is producing a similar degree of damage to my hair. I am going to be gentler going forward.

But there's more ... the conditioning agents in whatever you're using can lift the cuticle still further and make hair even more susceptible to breakage. Robbins quotes studies that indicate cationic surfactants such stearalkonium chloride or cetrimonium chloride raise the cuticle far more readily than neutral conditioning agents such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol. If you use products to cleanse that contain cationic surfactants, you can somewhat mitigate their lifting tendencies by ensuring that the product also contains the neutral conditioning agents. (This information really helps to explain why hair feels fuller -- or in my case, flyaway -- after using conditioners with these cationic surfactants -- the scales of the cuticle have been lifted.)

2. Combing and brushing

No real surprise here except ... combing wet hair is more damaging to the cuticle than combing dry hair! Again the factors described above come into play. Brushing, however, is even more damaging than combing.

It's important not to confuse actual breakage of the hair with chipping of the cuticle. Combing or brushing dry hair is far more likely to break the hair completely than combing or brushing wet hair. If you combing combing or brushing wet hair, just keep in mind that you are not performing as harmless an act as you thought you were.

3. Exposure to sunlight

This "weathers" the hair and "ages" it (and not like a fine wine). Like anything that is subjected to the sun for too long a period, the hair dries out and gets brittle, and when it gets brittle, cuticle chipping happens.

4. Drying hair with heat

When heat is applied to hair, it rapidly removes the water that the hair was holding on to. The hair contracts quickly to adjust to this abrupt change in moisture and this contraction -- or relieving of pressure -- results in cracks to the cuticle surface. These cracks lead to fragmentation over time.

If you comb during heat styling, you're doing even more damage.

Obviously, chemical treatments such as bleaching, dying, straightening, etc. also do damage but you already knew that, so I won't go into that here.

My next post will look at how this cuticle fragmentation can allow beneficial as well as damaging chemicals to enter the hair shaft.

Lorraine Massey update

2009-04-19T17:20:00.000-07:00

A couple of you have asked me whether Lorraine Massey phoned me as she said she would after receiving my response to her message. (To recap, she wrote me in response to a blog post I wrote about how I wished she'd do another book, start a blog, and explain the 'cones in some of her products. I posted her message and my response to it.)

Upon receiving my email, she wrote me back very quickly on April 4 and said:

thank you so much,Sage
i love your search curl truth,i am like you that way !![it gets me into trouble at times]
if i may add , i am a hairdresser that works all day behind the chair with my curly clients,whom i adore!
So i don't always get on the computer !!
I am off today to a curly CURLlaberation in phoenix !
could we talk at some point?
i am quite a slow one handed writer ,
please be patient with Deva & me ....we come in curlpeace after all we are not talking about illnesses .recession or death here !! thank God !!!we have to get perspective
let me know, we could have a podchat if you'd like.
curl love ,curl truth & curlHIlites
oxox

The message is simultaneously gracious and annoyed, which is a hard balance to strike. :) (I didn't clean it up at all -- what you see is what she typed.)

It's obvious to me, though, that she did want to talk. However, she did not seem to agree with me that the concerns of the curly community were quite as dire as I'd represented them. Perhaps not. But if Deva were my business, I'd want to do all I could to squelch rumors, clarify misunderstandings, and present my business as an honest and forthright one. Her message left me feeling like I cared more about how Deva looked than she did.

Nevertheless, I told her I'd be happy to talk and gave her my phone number. But it is now April 19 and I have heard nothing.

Now, there's no denying that answering to one little blogger in a sea of curly-headed devotees who will buy Deva no matter what is probably not that big a priority for Lorraine Massey. Hers is a big (and growing) company and my 1300 visitors a week pose little threat to her empire. I get that. I also understand that the demands of her schedule are hefty and that her time is precious. But again, if it were my company, I would welcome the opportunity to rectify what is without question a whole bunch of confusion.

From what I can see, Deva has contracted with NaturallyCurly.com to present this marketing campaign (the "Challenge") and NC.com will be the mouthpiece through which Deva speaks. If it were speaking well, I could understand what a successful arrangement that is. But it isn't working well. The thread related to the Challenge is full of invectives, questions, and outright Deva-bashing. (Deva has a few supporters but honestly, they do not impress me as people who feel comfortable questioning corporate motives or accepting that a company might be capable of lying. They want to trust slick marketing messages and smiling shills. Sorry if you're one of those people and I've just offended you, but hey, it's my blog and I can say what I want here.)

I guess the question I'd like to pose to anybody reading this is: If you were Lorraine Massey, what would you do?

Deva has attempted to address the labeling situation with the following statement Gretchen at NC.com recently posted:

Deva decided to use existing packaging (labels, bottles & components) to avoid delaying the introduction and availability of the newly formulated silicone- and paraben-free Deva Curl One Condition as well as to avoid packaging waste. Moving forward, Deva has implemented transition procedures to make sure the new packaging coincides with any new silicone and paraben-free formulations.

We apologize for the confusion and are committed to doing a better job in the future. We appreciate your faith in Deva and your patience while we work on bringing exciting new silicone- and paraben-free products to you.

This statement appeased some people, but not most of us. Again, we were glad that Deva took the time to respond to our concerns, but the statement they released is pretty ridiculous and full of holes:

- Just how long does it take to get labels printed? Does a new formula honestly get created and bottled and distributed faster than accurate labels can be printed and slapped on bottles? Was this formula such a last-minute surprise that there was no time for labels?

- Claims of avoiding packaging waste are very amusing to me, considering that Deva has been advocating the use of paper towels to dry clients' hair for several years now. Taking an environmentally conscious stand at this juncture rings a tad false for Deva.

- It's nice that Deva, "moving forward," will see to it that the labeling transition from old formula to new will be better. That's good because I'm sure that's what the FDA would like to see, too.

- As I posted in the Challenge thread at NC.com, an industry insider recently explained to me that this sort of "label catch-up" is quite common in the beauty industry. The FDA either turns a blind eye to it or companies just don't divulge that they're still using old labels on new products, mostly because it is a temporary measure. Most companies handle this quietly but Deva kind of messed up and put the cart before the horse by announcing the new formula before the labels were on the bottles. It's important to note that Deva was not trying to intentionally mislead us all -- I think they just stumbled and made a mistake. Unfortunately, it was a confusing mistake and it left a lot of people angry about mislabeled products. Deva should have clarified this way sooner than it did.

So, folks, unless I hear from Lorraine Massey, I'm putting this matter to rest. There's so much more to talk about in the curly world than one line of hair products.

A curly community for the curious

2009-04-17T20:28:00.000-07:00

I am delighted to report that Tiffany (of Live Curly, Live Free site and blog, aka StruttsWife) has set up a forum for those of us who have moved beyond the "what hair type am I?" stage and long to know more about what makes products work, why our hair behaves as it does, and what we can do to respond to hair's specific needs.

Can you even imagine how excited I am about this? Plus ... I am a moderator on the forum, which means I will have to read everything, even if it takes me away from my day job. Oh, the sacrifice.

Visit the Live Curly, Live Free Forum to see whether it's a place you can appreciate. Even if you don't feel you know enough to contribute, there's nothing wrong with lurking. We all stand to learn so much from a forum like this one, and big hugs to Tiffany for creating it!

Weird Product Wednesday: Deva Curl One Condition

2009-04-15T18:45:00.000-07:00

One Condition is weird, you ask? Since when?

Since they decided to change the ingredients, of course.

The original product -- which smells more divine than any conditioner I have ever experienced -- contained the following:

Aqueous Extracts of: Achilea Millefolium, Chamomilia Recutita (Matricaria), Cymbopogon Schoenanthus, Humulus Lupulus (Hops), Melissa Offcinalis (Balm Mint), Rosmarinus Offcinalis (Rosemary); Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Amodimethicone, Olive Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Esters, Propylene Glycol, Trideceth-12, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben, Fragrance.

Lots of people loved it, despite the fact that it contained a silicone (which Massey made her millions railing against) and had no protein (which Massey says in her book that a good conditioner should have). I suppose we could argue that the hops in the formula counted as protein, but I have not been able to find anything that proves this conclusively. If you can point me somewhere to see that kind of proof, by all means, do so.

Please note that the above list of ingredients is taken directly from the bottle I possess (bought more than a year ago). The first item is misspelled. It should be achillea (two l's) millefolium. So right off the bat, it's clear that somebody wasn't doing their due diligence on ingredient fact-checking. By the way, achillea millefolium is yarrow, another fact that the label does not disclose.

The next item, Chamomillia Recutita, also goes by Matricaria Recutita, and is basically chamomille. Cymbopogon Schoenanthus is also known as "camel grass" (so you can see why using the Latin name is preferred) and also as lemongrass, and it is a fragrant herb with no medicinal uses. The rest of the ingredients before the semi-colon are explained in parentheses and we can see, thanks to the semi-colon, that this list represents an herbal blend. And because this blend is at the top of the list, we can deduce that it figures prominently in the formulation. (To learn more about how to read an ingredient list, check out this blog post by the Beauty Brains.)

So now we are told that the new product contains the following ingredients:

Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Cetyl Esters, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Oleo Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Melissa Officinalis (Balm Mint) Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricia) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Extract, Propylene Glycol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance (Parfum).

Do you see what has happened? What is the main ingredient in this product now? Why, it's water! And after the emollients, fatty alcohols, and humectants (6 to be exact), there is some olive oil, which is nice. I've always thought that was one of the better ingredients in the previous formula, too. I am a big fan of olive oil.

But then comes the list of botanicals. And it is remarkably similar to the list from the old product.

Hey, wait a minute. Didn't Deva say that it was removing the amodimethicone because the company had finally found botanicals to replace it? Do you see any new botanicals in this list? And why, if botanicals are now so important, do they appear lower on the ingredient list than they did before? In other words, why do we have more fillers in this version of the product and a lower percentage of botanicals?

Don't you find that weird?

The parabens do appear to be gone, if those were a concern to you, and there is no mention of silicone, so that's a plus, too.

So, you're still paying $18 for 12 ounces but now you're getting fewer botanicals, a higher percentage of fillers, and the lingering memory of a labeling saga that reeks of something far less pleasant than lemongrass.

The right way to run a curl business

2009-04-12T19:44:00.000-07:00

Well, the events of last week left me (and probably many of you) a little disappointed. There's nothing worse than realizing that someone you respected and admired is really not worthy of respect or admiration. So, rather than harping on how not to run a business and focusing on a company that disregards its clientele for the sake of ever-increasing profit margins, I thought it might be nice to give some time and attention to a company that's doing things right: Curl Junkie.

Talking to Marsha, owner of Curl Junkie, reaffirmed for me that it's possible to create quality products for curly hair, and respond to client inquiries and requests with respect and honesty. Marsha is passionate about curly hair and gets very involved in the formulation of her products -- she can tell you not only what's in them but why. She also maintains a terrific blog!

Jillipoo: When did you start Curl Junkie and why?

Curl Junkie Marsha: I got started with Curl Junkie officially in February 2006 after months of formulating and learning about formulating, and years of being a PJ (product junkie) and learning about ingredients. I cut off my relaxed hair in 2003 and had been trying everything as well as the different methods (CG, etc.) to take care of my hair and was pretty frustrated. When I was in cosmetology school, I also saw a lack of product selection for our curly haired clients and their dissatisfaction with what was out there. I was working at a salon in NYC when I was inspired to try developing my own products to work on my clients' hair as well as my own. I wasn't necessarily thinking of starting my own line, but as my clients asked for more product, I began to do more research into how to start.

J: What is your background in hair?

CJM: I have always been fascinated by hair and actually wanted to be a hairdresser since I was 11 years old. I can remember being into analyzing conditioners and reading ingredient labels and trying to decipher ingredients in my early high school years. After going to college and grad school and working in the business and education fields, I finally decided that what I really wanted to do was go to cosmetology school. I graduated in mid-2005 and got my license in Oct. 2005.

J: What is your business philosophy?

CJM: There are so many types of curly girls and therefore there should be as many options. My goal is a modest one and that is to make high quality products that are worthy enough to stay in my customers' permanent rotation, if not become their HG (holy grail) products! Everything else revolves around that goal, including trying to provide excellent customer service and listen to customer feedback to keep improving customer satisfaction.

J: How do you create products and how is that different than the way most companies create products?

CJM: I cannot speak 100% for how other companies create products, but I think that the bigger companies or folks with the money go to a chemist and ask that a certain product created. They then let the chemist create. This means they are in the hands of the chemist, and not all chemists are created equal! Not to mention the back and forth between getting the samples which may or may not be good, can take months and months, and have no guarantee of success. In my experience, I have found it better to do the product creation, since I can work more efficiently and quickly than doing it through a chemist who may not understand all the needs of my client base. This means many, many hours of formulating on paper and then actually formulating, then failing many, many, many times until finally it clicks and the final product is born!!! Nothing is more satisfying!

J: Most people really do not understand what "all natural" means and why it isn't necessarily better than using ingredients made in a lab. What are your thoughts on this subject?

CJM: I think that is because the term has been abused. I do not think that all "artificial" ingredients are bad, but you have to choose wisely. I always check the safety of the ingredient and the function, because sometimes there are not good substitutes for the natural and sometimes the synthetic just really performs better. I have found that many companies claiming to be "all natural" are not. They may use some natural ingredients, but they are mixed with plenty of synthetics. Again, that doesn't mean that the products aren't good or safe, but it is misleading.

J: I've noticed that your product line is constantly evolving. What does this mean?

CJM: I listen to and take customer feedback very seriously. If I get enough complaints or requests for a new product and I can do it, time and money-wise (since manufacturers are very costly!), I work on developing or improving product and I love to do it since I want my customers to be as happy as possible with the products.

J: Lots of curly girls avoid silicones like the plague. Do you think that's necessary?

CJM: I think that every head is different and a lot depends on your lifestyle and product selection. For example, I love to shampoo, but not with harsh SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) type shampoos, but gentle ones like (shameless plug alert) my Curl Assurance Gentle Cleansing shampoo. That means, for me, that I could use a product with any type of silicone if I wanted. What I have found however, is that my hair doesn't react well to most silicones and can only take some modified Dimethicones and Amodimethicone in small doses and occasionally. I have tried to formulate my products so that there are no silicones or at least very small amounts and yet function in a similar fashion (in terms of conditioning, detangling, etc.) It can be done, it just tends to be more costly! But, in the long run, I have found my hair responds better to my products and others like them. The silicone-based ones feel like a "quick fix." However, for people who want to use heat tools or have very damaged hair, silicones may help with ease of combing and heat protection. It is a very individual choice, so I would not make a blanket statement about silicones since they do work for some people.

J: Most beauty products today are sold as much on the basis of how they feel and smell as much as how they perform. "Fillers" in hair care products are very common yet not well understood. What are some examples of fillers and can they ever be harmful or are they just benign and help the product feel more appealing to users? Does Curl Junkie avoid these and if so, why?

CJM: I have come to understand that there are certain ingredients which can help lower the cost of a product, while achieving a similar function, but if you use too much of these ingredients, you lose the effectiveness of the product. This is why a lot of drugstore products are disappointing. The ingredient lists look similar to more expensive ones, but don't perform the same. That’s because, instead of using, say, 5% of the ingredient, they use 1% because it's cheaper. It's not that most of these "fillers" are bad, it's just that companies seem to use them to substitute out or use less of more effective, expensive ingredients. For example, Cetyl Alcohol is a thickener and can be used as a filler. I love fatty alcohols because they make the product feel luxurious and do have conditioning benefits, but if you use more of it so you can use less of, say, shea butter, because it's cheaper, then you are using it as a "filler." So when I formulate, I look to find the right balance that will achieve the goal I'm looking for, not to hit a certain cost. Then, I'll see what it prices out to be. For some large companies, they will say to a chemist, "Develop a new rinse-out conditioner for $2 per 8oz,” and then the chemist will work backwards to achieve that goal. They will think about the cheapest thickeners, conditioners, and emollients with little concern about safety and most concern about cost and then effectiveness. I think there are few unsafe fillers. To me, it seems to be more about cost vs. function/effectiveness.

J: Advertising messages tell us we can eliminate frizz. How realistic is that for curly-haired people?

CJM: It is realistic for some, not all. For me, my hair can be mostly frizz-free, but I have NEVER been all frizz free and that is because I have too many types of curl patterns in my hair (from 3c-4a) and that alone can cause frizz. I have seen some curly heads that can be, and are, 99% frizz-free, but they are rare and I don't think that is a completely realistic goal for most and quite frankly, I think it can look a bit fake! A little "frizz" gives character and body! I look for hair to be: 1) healthy, 2) moisturized, 3) as defined as possible. I don't mind crunch, since some of it is necessary for my hair to look how I want it to look. If I have some frizz, I don't mind as long as the first two goals are met, because then your hair will look good no matter what ... IMO!

J: What have you learned about curly hair since first starting Curl Junkie?

CJM: Wow ... A ton. In particular, just how many types of curly/kinky hair there are and why you can't please everyone's hair type. That's OK, though, since I believe there is room for everyone! Also, I've learned a lot about chemistry and the uses of different ingredients. For example, gels, or I should say, the ingredients which can be used to make them and their benefits and drawbacks, which was something I hated in the beginning because I didn't fully understand the chemistry and have now come to love! I love challenges!

Thanks so much, Marsha, for your time and insights. Curly girls take note: this is the kind of enterprise that deserves our patronage, not one that plays games with labeling and won't answer direct questions about ingredients...

One step closer to geekitude

2009-04-09T19:57:00.000-07:00

I've had my eye on this book for months. But at $175, I balked. Justifiably, I think.

And then, about 10 days ago, I saw it on Amazon for less than half of that. And I had just gotten paid, so ... I bought it. It arrived today and my inner curl is all a-twitter.

It's the fourth edition (the most recent) but it came out in 2002, so perhaps I won't learn about the latest and greatest product interactions, but at least I'll learn more about the hair itself -- how it behaves, what role heredity plays, how certain substances react with it.

Either that, or it'll be completely over my head, I'll abandon the whole idea, and go back to getting all my information from women's magazines.

Wish me luck. I'll share any cool stuff I pick up here so we can learn together.

Weird Product Wednesday: Japanese hair trends

2009-04-08T22:41:00.001-07:00

I have my boyfriend to thank for sending me this little tidbit. Have I got him trained or what?

Maybe this is a trend that we'll soon see in the U.S., but Japan-based Mod's Hair is selling hair products based not on hair type (or desired hair type!) but rather on the hairstyle itself. For instance, take the "Airy Bob" hair wax. You would buy this product if you intended to wear your hair as the model to the right is wearing hers. You can see where the "airy" comes from -- it isn't flat and straight -- and obviously, her hair is cut in a bob. What an ingenious way to sell product. With all the hairstyles that are out there, you could convince users that they need a different product for every one!

And yes, there is one for curls. Well, waves. It's called Wave Memory and it's intended to make your hair "remember" the waves you create for it in the morning, even if you run your hands or fingers or a comb through it during the day. Hmmmm. My hair does enough thinking for itself, thank you, I don't know if I want it defying my attempts to run my hands through it. And when does it stop working, I wonder? Maybe when it gets wet? I don't know enough Japanese to read the site and find out.... But I wonder if it will hold naturally curly hair as well as it professes to hold fake curls/waves?

I couldn't find an ingredient list (in English) so I don't know what magical stuff these products contain. Maybe one of you can let me know!

And in keeping with our Japanese theme today, here's a little glimpse of the recent Japanese Hair Show. If this doesn't make you glad that all you have to worry about are some uncooperative curls, I don't know what will.

Why your boyfriend is oblivious to your hair

2009-04-05T12:29:00.000-07:00

Don't tell your boyfriend but there may actually be a scientific reason that explains why he doesn't notice when you're having a bad (or good) hair day.

New Scientist tells us that, for some people, the part of the brain that recognizes hairstyles is different than the part of the brain that recognizes faces. The article called this "hair blindness."

Personally, I eagerly await the man who has "does my butt look big in this dress" blindness.

Lorraine Massey wrote to me

2009-04-03T19:58:00.000-07:00

Gentle readers, gather round. I want to share an email I received from Lorraine Massey today. (I don't think she'd mind my putting it out for the world to see.)

dear Sage!
came across your blog ,someone 4warded it to me!!
so sorry about your frustration with me ,but i never claimed to be an author!
we never even thourght [sic] we would sell as many copies as we did!!
YES , i am updating & expanding CG as we Curl!!
thank you ,its curly girls like you that push me to try even harder
much curLOVE
lorraine ox

She is obviously responding to my post of a few weeks ago, in which I implored her to speak up about several discrepancies between the philosophy in her book and the ingredients in her products. Mainly, though, the post asked her publicly to update her book in order to address these discrepancies.

She must subscribe to Google Alerts or something because she found me and wrote to assure me that another book is coming.

Most of us knew that already, thanks to the Curly Girl Challenge. And for the most part, it's good news. As long as the book has more substance than the first one, that is.

I am touched, honored, and flattered that Lorraine would take the time to write me. It's also good business. Her timing is interesting, though, isn't it? For those of us who've been following the controversy at NaturallyCurly about the Curly Girl Challenge, Lorraine's response comes up a little short, I'm sorry to say.

I wrote her back, and here is what I said:

Lorraine:

What a pleasure to hear from you! I'm very flattered that you took the time to write me, and I'm excited to know that another book is in the works. I'd heard about it through the Curly Girl Challenge you are conducting with the help of NaturallyCurly.com.

I'm not sure whether you know that you and Deva are not getting good press at the moment. There is confusion over not only the contest, but the Deva line of products. And nobody from Deva is representing the company in a manner that adequately addresses the NC.com community's concerns, which is only adding fuel to the fire and raising the level of debate. In fact, I am sharing this email with the readers of my blog at http://jillipoo.blogspot.com because many of us are following this topic with great interest.

I confess that I am at a loss to figure out why so many questions continue to go unanswered. Rather than sending a representative to field questions and promote Deva at NC.com, why don't you speak to us directly, as you did to me via email? The Curly Community who frequent the forums there are rapidly losing faith in what you and Deva stand for. Nobody is happy about the situation. I would think that would be true of you most of all.

A Deva representative stated: "Any trace amount of a cone that was previously in Deva, has been removed. The reason it was there in the first place, was because we were unable to find a botanical replacement. However, I am happy to report that as of January 1st, 2009, DevaCurl is silicone free, paraben free, plastic free, resin free, sulfate free, botanically drenched and considered vegan. We have never tested on animals and we will never test on animals.

"Please note that by law, we have permission to finish any unused labels from 2008, but rest assured, any product that was filled in 2009, even with 2008 labels stands by our promise."

Some people have found the Challenge unclear and confusing. (I am not in that camp, but am just relaying some of the buzz to you.) More important, though, is the flurry of commentary that has arisen from the Deva rep's statement I quoted above. People are demanding to know:

1. How can Deva legally sell a product whose contents are not accurately represented on its label? Gretchen from NC.com tried to explain that Deva just wanted to use up all its labels. Are the costs of labels that big an expense for a company as large as Deva? And are labeling standards that loose in the United States? If so, it would seem that none of us should trust that what's listed on any product is actually what's inside the bottle/tube/jar. Why not put a new label over the old one, or at least date the bottles to help consumers know whether they are using the old or new formulation? Surely you can appreciate how ridiculous Deva looks when it makes a statement like that. You need to step in and clear things up.

2. Many of us, myself included, feel that DevaCurl OneCondition is the antithesis of what you say curly hair needs. It contains a silicone, and has no protein. (Your book states that a good conditioner should have a balance of protein, emollients, humectants, and moisture.) Although amodimethicone is a relatively light silicone, it is nevertheless present in OneCondition, and we can only assume, since Deva is your company, that you were fully aware it was there. Because you have been silent on this point, many of us have further assumed that you opted to put out such a product because it was financially expedient to do so. We'd probably even find it in our curly hearts to forgive you for that lapse in judgment if you'd just talk about it publicly. Your silence is forcing people to fill in the gaps, and when that happens, the truth is lost amid conjecture, accusation, and assumptions. The fact that Deva is now announcing that the silicone has been removed suggests that the company acknowledges it was mistake to have it in there in the first place.

3. The Deva rep says botanicals will replace the amodimethicone. What sort of botanicals? Because the new products aren't labeled properly, we cannot even consult the bottles for more information. Doesn't this lack of disclosure leaves Deva open to civil suits in the event that someone uses the "new" version that contains something they are allergic to? Why would Deva risk that? What is in the new formulation and why aren't you sharing the ingredient list?

Lorraine, I know you're busy but it wouldn't take long to address the curly community through NC.com and put a stop to all the rumor mongering and Deva bashing. A few hours of your time and some genuine transparency in lieu of the cutesy curl banter would go a long way toward winning back some customers and gaining new ones. It's a goodwill gesture that's long overdue, in my opinion.

Best regards,
Jill
(aka Sage Vivant)

Weird Product Wednesday: Propylene Glycol

2009-04-01T20:36:00.000-07:00

If you counted all the times I've had my head up my butt about ingredients, you'd get a number higher than the Nasdaq. (True that number is lower than it has been, but it's still pretty high.)

Take propylene glycol, for instance. About a year ago, after reading CurlChemist's article on Humidity, Humectants, and Hair, I took a gander at her list of humectants at the bottom of the page. In my addled little pea brain, I noticed that many of the humectants contained gly in their names and so I made the rather natural assumption that the gly meant they were derived from glycerine, the mother of humectants.

[Buzzer sounds] I was wrong.

Turns out that propylene glycol is a petroleum product. No reason for concern, says CurlChemist, and I have to agree, even though I try to avoid petroleum products whenever I can. (Like, I once had a friend who slept with Vaseline on her face every night. She had great skin but I just couldn't bring myself to emulate that particular ritual without evoking images of oil derricks and highly flammable job sites.) Although it is a humectant and works very much like glycerine, propylene glycol does not contain glycerine.

But get this. Scientists are at work to convert glycerine into propylene glycol! Seems it's a renewable (read: eco-friendly) method of propylene glycol production. (Yes, propylene glycol is used in anti-freeze, but that's not as scary as it sounds. The more you learn about ingredients, the more you realize that our laundry detergent contains the sulfates that are in shampoo, our hair conditioners contain the very compounds that make fabric softeners work so well, and that personal care products benefit from the same viscosity that anti-freeze does. What a world, huh?) I haven't found too much more about this topic that's recent, but I thought it was interesting that the gly in propylene glycol may not signify glycerine now, but it will in the near future!

I do avoid propylene glycol because my hair is not a big fan of humectants, but at least now I know not to avoid them because they are glycerine. Yet.

Be a smarter curly

2009-03-29T12:05:00.000-07:00

Although it is true that I am no scientist, I do have a healthy respect for research. And as long as a person has access to the Internet, it amazes me that they would prefer to post a question to a discussion board before or instead of doing a little prowling around the Web to find some answers.

I see this laziness at NC.com quite a lot, and I don't mind telling you that it irks the crap out of me. We all have questions. Curiosity is good. But get off your ass and poke around the Internet (even do a search on the very same discussion board you're posting to, for crying out loud) to see if the answer is already out there before posting a question that's been posed by several dozen people before you.

Bring something to the table, is all I'm asking. Next time you have a question, do some research and if that doesn't fully answer your question -- or better still, if it raises further questions -- then post a question to the discussion boards and see if you can't elevate a mundane, common inquiry into something that a wider range of people could benefit from.

I posted this thread to NC.com last week. It promptly died. Why? My theory is that most of the folks there would rather just talk about products. They wear they PJism (that's Product Junkie-ism, for those of you who aren't in the know) like a badge of honor, and while that's often fun (who doesn't love trying new products?), I feel that if we don't evolve beyond that stage of willy-nilly product experimentation, we never get any smarter. How can we outsmart the beauty industry if we don't try to educate ourselves?

So, how about I post the list of sites I frequent to learn more about ingredients and chemicals? If you have sites to add, by all means, please leave a comment with your favorite link.

Wikipedia. It's my first stop for any undecipherable, unpronounceable ingredient. It almost always gives me a good basic understanding of what an ingredient does, and sometimes will offer links I can follow to learn more.

Cosmetics Info. This site is great. It tells you what it is, whether it's safe, and how and why it's used in products.

Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. This compendium of ingredients, compiled by beauty expert Paula Begoun (author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me), is comprehensive yet boils things down to their essence.

The Beauty Brains. Though not a glossary or dictionary or encyclopedia, the breadth of no-nonsense information on this site is impressive. Using the search function on even the most seemingly esoteric word often yields useful results. I love this site and refer to it often.

Naturally Curly ingredient list. This article lists some of the most commonly found ingredients in hair products. The headings may or may not be helpful to you in some cases, but if you just need to know whether something is an emollient or a silicone, this could be a handy page to consult. (This site has quite a library of ingredient information on it, but navigating your way through it and finding paths to it can be frustrating. Their internal search function is not reliable but sometimes you can find what you're looking for by typing "naturally curly" and the ingredient in question into Google.)

CurlChemist articles. Tonya, aka Curl Chemist at naturallycurly.com, has written some informative articles that the site hasn't gotten around to formally archiving yet. I highly recommend her articles if you want to know how something works in a chemical formulation.

So, that's a start. What sites do you use to look things up?

Congratulations Sarah S!

2009-03-28T15:37:00.001-07:00

She's the lucky winner of the Curls Like Us towel giveaway I announced last week.

I'll bet she will love them. Hope she posts a comment here to let us know!

Deva addresses the 'cone

2009-03-23T19:57:00.000-07:00

At Naturally Curly, a representative from Deva has disclosed that the reason Deva has used amodimethicone lo these many years is because it couldn't find "a botanical replacement." Effective 2009, however, all conditioning products put out by the company will be 'cone-free.

Nice. Good news. I'd like to be happy, but there's something just not right about this situation. I couldn't address my misgivings on the discussion boards because I don't want to be the voice of negativity there, but I don't mind telling you here, at my blog, that I am suspicious of this sudden visibility of Deva. They have been untouchable and rather uncommunicative for years. And now, without warning, they are chatting up the curly community. Call me a curmudgeon, but it feels disingenuous. (Yes, I know that sounds strange from me, given my plea to Lorraine to open up about why she puts silicones in her conditioners. But I don't know... I just find this unprecedented transparency uncharacteristic and therefore, odd.)

I mean, here's a company that sprung up shortly after Lorraine Massey published her book. With no explanation or apology, it sold conditioners containing the very same ingredient Curly Girl advised us to avoid. The company also made shampoos, and although Deva was very keen on shouting from the rooftops about the absence of sulfates in those shampoos, it was odd that they had shampoos at all, if the advice in the book was to hold true. (Well, I take that back. The book says wavy-haired people might need the occasional shampoo. Were the shampoos, then, directed at wavies? Doesn't seem that way.)

My next beef: Why put out a product in the first place that doesn't conform to your very public philosophy? Why not wait until you *can* find the "botanical replacement"? Could they not wait because maybe there was too much money to be made in the interim? I was among the people who bought a bunch of Deva products the moment I learned Massey had created a line of them. I assumed, as surely many other unsuspecting curlies did, that the conditioner would not have silicones, given who its inventor was. But alas, the 'cones were there -- and just happened to have needed the "low poo" to remove them. Convenient, no?

And lastly, why the extended silence? Did the questioning on the part of the curly community just finally become too loud to ignore? Perhaps it was our incessant haranguing that eventually made it impossible for Deva to keep selling us a product that contradicted its founder's beliefs about acceptable hair product ingredients. If so, good for the curly community! It pays to be tenacious.

I will try to take Deva at its word and accept this new, friendly, unsiliconed face it wants to present to the world. But I'm watching you, Deva. I'm watching you.

[Added one day later: Naturally Curly, adding to the suspicious nature of all of this, removed that post and instead quoted the representative in a different post. I have updated the link above -- look for Gretchen's post on page two of that thread.]

Win a Curls Like Us towel!

2009-03-21T10:46:00.001-07:00

You've heard about these towels. They are all the rage on the boards at Naturally Curly! And they are soooo much prettier to hang in your bathroom than a old t-shirt (which is what's been recommended to curlies in the past by persons who shall remain nameless but who have written a best selling book).

And now ... you could win a set of these fabulous towels just by posting a comment to this post. (You can even just say "gimme" if that's how you really feel.)

Need convincing that these towels are pretty cool? Well, for one thing, you could read Pittsburgh Curly's review about them. Or you could read the Spotlight article Naturally Curly did on them a few months ago. And here are the features and benefits, as per the company:

* The smooth texture wicks away just the right amount of water and sets curls, without introducing frizz
* The ergonomical, tubular shape of the Curl Cloth™ makes it easy to rotate during use
* The brown color does not become discolored by residual hair dye
* Includes a convenient loop for hanging
* Makes your favorite curl-friendly styling products work better
* Sets curls and encourages “Curl Clustering™” for improved definition while reducing separation
* Unlike terry cloth, they do not introduce frizz or cause split ends and breakage
* Great, earth-friendly alternative to using paper towel

And hey, have I mentioned you can win a set of two by simply posting a comment here? I will pick a winner at random on Saturday, March 28. I'll notify that winner, post who won here on this blog, and then Curls Like Us will be in touch with that person to send them the towels.

Good luck!

Weird Product Wednesday: Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee

2009-03-18T20:47:00.000-07:00

There's a tendency among products to overstate their properties: creamy, rich, glossy, light, refreshing, and so on. We buy these products hoping they will be and do what the label says but we always know that they will probably fall short of their promises.

When Biosilk tells you that its gel is rock hard, however, you may believe them. This product stiffens faster than a corpse on CSI. You can read about Jaime's experience or that of A Girl and Her Curl, but now I'm going to give you the skinny on this crazy product we affectionately refer to as BRHG (Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee).

Yes, it's a little pricier than most of the other gels at the drugstore, but note that it is in the drugstore nonetheless, so it's still in the ballpark of affordability. I find that it's usually $8 or $9 most places I've seen it. Yes, L.A. Looks gels are cheaper but they can't keep Dorothy Gale's pigtails in place during a tornado like BRHG can.

I know what you're thinking. "Sheesh, I don't need that much hold!" Uh huh. Sing it sister. Then talk to me again after you get caught in a windstorm or a sudden rain shower. Who you gonna call then, huh?

In my experience, using BRHG straight is overkill. You don't need this kind of hold unless you're headed for the drive-thru car wash in a convertible. But if you're currently using a gel -- or the much-revered Kinky Curly Curling Custard -- that isn't quite delivering what you need in terms of hold, guess what? You can add of wee bit of BRHG and voila! you get improved performance from your tired old gel.

Here are a couple of ways I use it:

* Three parts Kinky Curly Curling Custard to one part BRHG. For me, it is the perfect combo. I get softness and clumps from the KCCC, and frizz control and smoothness from the BRHG. And scrunch-out is just crunchy enough to let you know that you'll have decent hold. (I promise to post a photo of my hair with this combo soon. There are days I can't believe it's really my hair, it looks so good.)

* Three parts TheraNeem Leaf and Aloe Gel (or just regular aloe vera gel) to one part BRHG over an application of Boots curl creme. Wow. This is another reliable combo for me. Boots delivers the clumps, the aloe vera offsets the tiny bit of alcohol in the Boots, and the BRHG holds it all together. In warmer weather, this combo is surprisingly great.

But there's no reason you couldn't mix this with a host of other products, such as:

* Dilute it with conditioner (probably something along the lines of something from the Suave Naturals line but hey, use your imagination!) and scrunch it into wet hair.

* Mix it with Aubrey Organics Mandarin Magic Ginkgo Leaf and Ginseng Root Hair Moisturizing Jelly (that just rolls off the tongue, doesn't it?). Kathymack recently mentioned that she mixes AOMM with lots of different products and I suspect that BRHG would be an absolutely perfect addition. That whole clumps + hold formula, you know?

BRHG is a product that's easy to overdo. It begs to be cut or diluted with something else because it is just too powerful on its own. Unless you've got some thick, unruly hair, you might want to find ways to lessen the hold that BRHG provides.

Hair rituals

2009-03-14T14:46:00.000-07:00

From Simon Cowell's hair ritual to Aaryn Belfer's tale of combing her daughter's hair, to Photographer Brenna K. Murphy's attempt to evoke her mother's memory by playing with her own hair, one thing becomes clear: hair is more than a means of keeping our heads warm.

We gather in the name of hair as an excuse for social interaction. We commit to certain regimens to give ourselves a sense of order and even control. And as far back as Samson, we have equated our hair or some aspect of it (length, color, curl, shine) to some quality about ourselves (strength, confidence, fashion sense, desirability) that we either want to minimize or highlight.

Obviously, a single blog post could never address this topic adequately, but I was recently struck by how incredibly willing, even eager, so many of us are to adopt a very defined procedure for doing our hair. Take a look at any of the descriptions provided by the women I featured in the Cold-Weather Hair Care series, and you'll see what I mean.

We love our hair. And even when we hate it, it's only because we want to love it but can't find a way. The ritual, we often think, is the way.

All hail the ritual!

On one of the curly discussion forums, I once saw a post about how one curly swore that if she scrunched product into her hair with no less (and no more) than eight pulses per section, she got better curls. She could have said five and she could have said 103 -- people would still have jumped on the advice and immediately tried it the next time they washed their hair. (And yes, I did try it. I never said I was immune to the lure of the ritual. Eight did not prove to be a magic number.)

More recently, a long thread at naturallycurly.com informed all interested parties that by bending forward to apply and rinse product, better curls and clumps were formed. The thread became a fascinating glimpse into the quest for exactly the right procedure to achieve the often-elusive goal of clumping. Women were willing to get water up their noses and endure back pain if it meant their hair would look great. Questions about precisely how much conditioner and what brand came up often. Experiments were launched and results reported. More questions ensued until finally everybody in search of a ritual had tested this one. Some adopted it, others undoubtedly moved on to find a more successful one. (I tried this one, too. And you know what? It worked quite well! And so far, I've managed to avoid swallowing any water.)

The most common hair ritual, though, is the deep treatment. Some of the homemade potions are a real testament to the desire to make this experience special. Coconut milk and Lustrasilk, egg and honey and mayonnaise, cassia and yogurt -- you name it, and somebody has thought to combine it for a unique concoction all their own. Women set aside time for this act and often combine it with a relaxing bath or a manicure or maybe a great movie. The deep treatment for hair is part of a woman's "me" time, it seems. Even aside from the fact that they have to wear something profoundly silly on their heads to undergo the treatment, they prefer to be alone while the beautification happens. One can only assume, then, that the soul as well as the hair is getting the attention it needs.

I started to think about my own hair rituals and realized I have several. (I know you're stunned.) The scrunching technique is one but here are some others:

- Every morning while I wait for my hair to dry, I wear my robe belted and off the shoulders. This does nothing to keep me warm (and believe me, my house is cold) but it keeps my curls away from the microfiber collar of my robe. My boyfriend thinks it's sexy but to me, it's what must be done in order not to disturb my curl formation. I do this regardless of how cold I am.

- Every four weeks, I go to the salon to get my hair colored. I don't like the smell of hair color and I don't like shelling out money to keep my gray out of sight. But I think I do like sitting in the salon, drinking tea, and reading trashy magazines that I never in a million years would otherwise read. And I like catching up with my stylist, who I sincerely enjoy.

- I diffuse my hair holding the dryer in the same eight locations on my head. I never deviate from this. I must think it works.

What are your rituals and why do you think you observe them?

The curl doctor is in!

2009-03-09T01:05:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it feels like the beauty industry is intent on keeping us in the dark so that we'll keep blindly buying products, hoping for the one that delivers that long-awaited beauty. StruttsWife of naturallycurly.com (or Tiffany, creator of Live Curly, Live Free) has been one of the posters at the NaturallyCurly.com forums to provide real information -- the science behind the beauty. She's helped hundreds, maybe even thousands of us who frequent that site, to understand what hair is, how it reacts to things like weather and chemical treatments, and how to figure out what our hair wants. She is generous with her time and her knowledge, and I am personally eternally grateful for all that I've learned from her. And today, she is here to answer your questions. Well, actually, she answered my questions but you'll benefit from her answers too, I feel certain. I'm so jazzed that she agreed to this interview! (And no, the photo does not depict Tiffany. It is what I imagine a curl doctor to look like in Jillipoo Fantasyland.)

Tiffany, you've written a lot lately about texture and porosity (and only slightly less about elasticity and density). You've even started an excellent thread over at naturallycurly.com to help people get a handle on these concepts, so I will try to stay away from questions that'll just make you repeat what you've already said.

1. For porous or damaged hair, protein is often prescribed. But there seems to be a lot of confusion about different types and forms of protein. There's keratin, eggs, silk protein, reconstructors, and probably more that I don't even know about. Some are called "light" protein treatments while others are "intensive." What's the difference in terms of the effect on the hair? Is it true that some protein has molecules small enough to penetrate the hair and be more effective? If so, what kind of protein is that?

Your hair's condition and texture is a great baseline to determine how much protein you need. If you want to add protein simply because you have a fine texture and you need the extra support, a light protein treatment is fine. If, however, you have damage from sun, chlorine or chemical processes, a heavier protein recontruction will then be necessary for any real effectiveness.

Any protein that is animal-based or that has the prefix "hydrolyzed" in front of it is a stronger protein; those such as natural "wheat" or "soy" are the proteins that are lighter. "Keratin" is the natural protein from which your hair is made.

Proteins with smaller molecules are not necessarily more effective than those with larger molecules. While it's true smaller molecules can penetrate into the cortex--or inner layer of the hair--more easily, this really only becomes a consideration when you are effecting a chemical change in the hair, such as with color or texturizing. Proteins with larger molecules may take a slightly longer time to penetrate into the cortex, but they will be just as effective as those with smaller molecules once they get in there.

2. What do you think of clear or colored rinses such as Sebastian's Colourshines or Jazzings to help control porosity and preserve color treatments? Should they be used often or just after you color? How long do they last? Or would a protein treatment be just as good, or possibly better? Or are these products just another form of protein? Does lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar accomplish the same thing?

I love color glazes and use them often in my own color work. They add a beautiful dimension to permanent color: for example, in the winter, I apply a clear glaze over my dark espresso color which gives my hair enormous depth and shine; in warmer weather, I like to mix a bit of a burgundy cherry color with the clear for a more "summery" look. However, you can't always automatically assume a glaze will help to control porosity; quite the contrary.

Glazes are mainly semi- or demi-permanent color treatments with a clear or tinted result. They are different from permanent color in that they only stain the outside of the cuticle, whereas permanent color actually results in a chemical change inside the cortex. Glazes can help to prevent permanent color from fading since they add another level of "defense" on top of the hair shaft and normally last anywhere from six to 12 weeks, depending on the type of glaze used.

Unless there is some type of protein in the glaze, however, it will not help to reconstruct the hair in any way; and, frankly, I believe it is much more effective to apply a glaze, wait 24 hours, and then do a separate protein treatment. Lemon juice, citric acid, and vinegar are different in that their function is to shut down the cuticle, whereas protein treatments actually penetrate into the hair shaft and fill in any "holes" left in the cortex by damage or chemical processing.

3. It's clear that you are trying to teach people about the principles and characteristics of hair so that people can start to make connections between ingredient behavior and hair characteristics. (Using myself as an example, using glycerin on my porous hair is inviting more moisture into hair that already doesn't know when to stop drinking. So, I limit my glycerin use.) But people like quick and easy answers, so let's give them some quick fixes...

For example, if your hair is porous, what should you use?

Always, always base your product selections on your hair's texture and condition rather than on its porosity: protein-based for fine hair, humectant- and emollient-based for coarse hair (medium texture hair can usually support a wide range of product ingredients).

If your hair is not porous, however, you need to open up your cuticle before you apply your conditioner for it to be the most effective. Warm liquids and alkaline solutions (such as baking soda scrubs) are what open the hair shaft, so rinse your hair for a full minute with very warm water before you apply your conditioner. Then follow with a cool rinse to close the cuticle back down.

If your hair is porous, your hair shaft is already open, so you can apply your conditioner then follow with a cool rinse to help shut the cuticle back down. Any product that is "pH-balanced" or "acid-balanced" will also help to keep your cuticle shut; ACV or lemon juice rinses are also a good idea in moderation, provided you remember these are acids and can damage your hair further if not used wisely.

Coarse hair can feel smoother if you use:
... anything with a healthy humectant or emollient base, and a lot of it. Coarse hair has so much protein in it naturally, applying any product with protein on top of it can spell disaster--resulting in a strawlike, wicked dry mess. And I find a very common problem among my coarse-haired clients is that they have a tendency to skimp on product. Coarse hair needs to be saturated, and saturated often, with very moisturizing ingredients to keep dryness at bay.

4. In your opinion, what's the biggest curly hair ripoff on the market today? (Can be a product or a philosophy or both)

That your wave pattern has anything to do with how you should care for your curly hair. It makes me crazy to see people buy into the philosophy of "my hair is classified as spiral ringlets, therefore I should use products X and Y in my maintenance routine." That is so misleading!

It is your hair properties that help you to determine how to care for your curly hair properly. That's basic trichology, good hair science, and it holds up against any of those so-called "curl classification" systems.

5. What do you think of deep treatments? Are they necessary for all hair types? Is there ever a point at which they are no longer necessary? What about those new, expensive steam treatments for hair?

Deep treatments can be a great part of your maintenance routine, depending on your hair's individual needs. Because I color, I do a deep treatment twice per month--once 24 hours after I color, another at the midway point between colorings (at about three weeks), which helps to keep my hair healthy and in great shape. If you do any kind of a chemical process, a monthly or bi-monthly deep treatment can be a good idea.

People with fine hair, however, should be extremely careful since their hair typically needs more protein, not more moisturizers. I seldom recommend routine deep treatments for any of my fine-haired clients, unless it's an initial series of treatments because she is severely dehydrated. An "as needed" protein pack is usually far more effective here.

I don't think there is a point deep treatments are no longer necessary for most people, but I believe there can come a time where they no longer need to be routine. If you don't chemically process and if your hair is healthy, you can do a deep treatment at arbitrary times just when you feel a little extra moisture is needed--such as if the weather becomes extremely dry, if you've been sick, etc.

The jury is still out on those steam treatments; frankly, I've yet to see where paying $$$ at a salon is more effective than what you can do for yourself at home. Boil a pot of water, remove it from the heat, lean over the pot and hold a towel over your conditioner-saturated head to capture the steam for 5-10 minutes--you'll steam your hair and give yourself a great facial at the same time (throw some mint or rosemary leaves in there for a little aromatherapy while you're at it!).

6. Closing the cuticle has come up recently as an important step in preserving color treated hair. Acidic products help do this, and several curlies were conjecturing about the good effects of vinegar rinses, citric acid, and acidifying products. What is an acidifying product? Aside from looking for products that are labeled "for color-treated hair," how can a curly spot such an item on a store shelf? What ingredients might an interested curly look for?

Closing the cuticle is definitely important, not only for preserving hair color, but for the overall health of hair in general!

An acidifying product is one that lowers the pH of the hair and brings it back into an appropriately balanced range. Just because a product is labeled "for color-treated hair", however, does not necessarily mean it is acidifying. Look for citric acid (organic) or phosphoric acid (inorganic) on the product label as an indication acidifying product ingredients have been included in the formulation. Conversely, be cautious with products that include TEA (Triethanolamine) or DEA (Diethanolamine), which are both alkalizing agents and will raise the pH of the product.

You can also "balance" your own conditioner by adding a small drop of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice for each tablespoon of conditioner (do not premix, as the solution can go rancid even if the product already contains preservatives). Don't go overboard---you want to lower the pH of the product to an appropriate range, not make it so acidic that it begins to dry the hair shaft.

Thank you so much, Tiffany! It's been fabulous having you here today (even if you don't look like that guy with the stethoscope).

Enough with the Pantene bashing already!

2009-03-08T11:42:00.000-07:00

(Nice little trip down Memory Lane, no?)

Before I begin, let me say that I do not work for Pantene. I don't derive any benefit from saying nice things about them. But I really get tired of curlies dissing the entire line of products when, in fact, some of the products are actually CG and do work pretty well.

(And I don't mean to single out Pantene here, because lots of companies make some products that you might like and others that you wouldn't. Take Suave, for instance. The only conditioners you'd want to use if you're CG are from the "naturals" line -- the others contain silicones. Does that mean all of Suave is bad (or good)? No. Read labels and experiment before making remarks like "Pantene is bad" or "Suave is good.")

So, let's look at Pantene. They are owned by Procter & Gamble, who also own other hair brands: Aussie, Head & Shoulders, Herbal Essences, Infusium 23, and Clairol Hair Color. You can bet that ingredients, testing procedures, and even product formulations cross some lines -- such "sharing" just makes sense, business-wise. P&G is a huge company with a huge research budget. In fact, discoveries they make and products they develop are frequently the basis on which smaller companies create their own products.

Pantene has a somewhat interesting history, by the way. The line was developed shortly after World War II and based its marketing on the "healing" qualities of Panthenol. (Panthenol had originally been created and used to treat burn victims during the war.) Pantene's products don't actually have enough Panthenol to heal, per se, but Panthenol basically coats the hair and makes it feel smooth without leaving it greasy. It binds well to hair and has humectant qualities. All good things when you're trying to make a hair product that yields shine and manageability to the user.

Pantene offers shampoos, conditioners, and stylers. I've heard some people (who apparently are incapable of reading an ingredient list) say that Pantene products have wax in them and that the wax coats your hair. How do these ridiculous rumors get started? My guess is that some misinformed stylist told a client not to buy Pantene so they would instead spend twice as much on some salon-sanctioned Matrix product, but maybe I'm projecting. Here, for instance, is the ingredient list for Pantene's Moisturizing Hydrator Rinse:

Water/Eau, Stearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Alcohol, Bis-Aminopropryl Dimethicone, Panthenol, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Lysine HCI, Methyl Tyrosinate HCI, Histidine, Fragrance/Parfum, Disodium Edta, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone

See any wax there? Of course you don't. You do see Bis-Aminopropryl Dimethicone, which for CGers is a no-no, but does that make this product "bad?" No. It only makes it something you prefer not to use because of your decision to ban silicones from your hair. Other people may, in fact, like what this product does for them. Note also that it is not so terribly different from many conditioners on the market. (And Bis-Aminopropryl Dimethicone is one of the mildest silicones there is. Many find it can be co-washed out, but if your hair is the type that hangs onto it, it can be shampooed out with milder cocomidopropyl betaine shampoos -- you don't absolutely need a sulfate shampoo.)

And take a look at the ingredient list for the Pantene Pro-V Style Curl Defining Scrunching Gel that xcptnl said she uses:

Water , PVP , Laureth-23 , VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer , Panthenol , Panthenyl Ethyl Ether , Triisopropanolamine Carbomer , DMDM Hydantoin , PEG-12 Dimethicone , Methylparaben , Propylparaben , Disodium EDTA , Fragrance

Not a single thing there that should send you running for the hills, individual tolerances for Panthenol and parabens notwithstanding. (PEG before a cone means that it is water-soluble, by the way.)

I tend to avoid Pantene, but that's because my hair-care preferences don't align with most of the product line. Just because I am not a fan of silicones doesn't mean that the company makes an inferior product. And thanks to xcptnl, I am going to try that gel...

Cold weather hair care, day seven

2009-03-06T21:30:00.000-08:00

My final guest in this series is none other than Botticelli Babe, owner of breathtaking curls and creator of products straight from her kitchen. I changed the name of my blog when it was clear that this lady was developing quite a following, thanks to her products. And now she's here to divulge her cold-weather hair care secrets to you. Settle in and get comfortable, though. Botticelli Babe has a lot to say!

"Hello, my fellow curlies! First I gotta say, I'm so honored to have been asked by the Jillipoo to write a little bit for her blog. How fabulous is that?!

"I live in east central Minnesota, where we've had just about the coldest winter in the last ten years. Wanna know how I've managed all winter long? Did I DT (deep treat) every week? No. In fact, I think I may have only done two DTs since the snow fell. Did I load on the leave-in conditioner? No. I don't even use one – I hate the way they make my hair feel, all gummy and coated. Did I buy a ton of expensive product and use three things in the shower and four things out of the shower just to get manageable hair for one day? No. In fact, my routine is now down to three simple (and actually very inexpensive) things.

"I wash my hair every two to three days, and I haven't gotten greasy roots in months – even if I stretch it for another day or two because I'm feeling lazy or sick. I wash with one of a few different things. I have been using the same South of France Acai Pomegranate body bar since late August, I think. I use it for my hair and my body, too, and it still has lasted this long. It's a triple milled 8.8 ounce bar, and it's super hard because of the triple milling process. They last FOREVER. They make all kinds of yummy scents, too. Because of the super hardness of the bar, they don't leave a waxy, coated feeling at all, like a lot of bar soaps can do to your hair. They smell great, cleanse gently, and rinse clean. I haven't done a vinegar rinse in months.

"Other things I like for washing my hair would be my low-poo options, like the South of France body washes (Hey – read the label! Who cares what they call it, as long as it has the right ingredients!), Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat shampoo, Giovanni Smooth as Silk shampoo (it does have amodimethicone, so I don't use it often), and a slew of other handmade bars that I can't recall the names of right now.

"For conditioning, I love L’oreal Vive Pro Nutri Gloss* (LVPNG for short) for medium to long hair that's wavy or curly. I condition liberally (this stuff is very thick and rich, and detangles like a dream), and brush through well with my Denman while in the shower -- wet brushing is the only way all the tangles are coming out of my thick, wild mane! So I brush my conditioner through and let it sit while I finish my shower, then rinse out completely.

"Then I heard L’Oreal might be changing the formula to include amodimethicone, so I began my search for the perfect conditioner that I knew would never change, and the only way that was going to happen was if I made it myself.

"That began my foray into homemade products. I began trying my hand at stylers first, since I had things on hand. From that was borne my Gelee, Brulee, and Humectant Hair and Body Butter, which I now sell at my Etsy shop, Botticelli Botanicals. The products are all-natural with paraben- and formaldehyde-free preservatives, and they care for curls (and all hair types!), with no silicones, no sulfates, no polymers, no polyquats, no proteins, and no alcohols. Just lots of moisture and nourishing natural hold and shine. The Butter is a single formulation, and the Brulee has one option for the customer to choose, which is the scent. The Gelee, however, is another story altogether! There are many options for the customer to choose from, ranging from adding curl enhancers and extra moisture to the level of hold and humectants the individual desires, and of COURSE, you can choose your own scent from a very large selection I have on hand. For right now, I'm only selling the Gelee, Brulee, and Butter, but I'm very hot on the heels of the perfect conditioner formula as we speak, and that could show up in my shop as soon as next week. I'll know after a couple more uses of my test batch. I also plan to include all natural sulfate- and silicone-free shampoo, and possibly even shampoo bars in the future. Keep an eye on the shop, and you'll see all of my latest news and products!

"OK, enough with the plug -- now it's time for the proof. After conditioning and rinsing completely (I can't leave conditioner in my hair or it feels gummy, plus for me it interferes with how my styler sets), I grab my wide-toothed Conair shower comb, and my trusty bottle of my own Gelee. I apply generously, and alternately smooth, rake, and scrunch until it feels like my hair can't possibly have a spot that I missed or that doesn't have enough Gelee. This stuff is really miraculous -- somehow, you absolutely cannot overdo it. I find that the more I use, the better my hair looks and feels. Oh yes -- and the Gelee doesn't just make your hair look great...it FEELS great too! Very important to note for those who either want or need to have touchably soft hair. I just keep applying until it feels like my hair can't take any more, but not until it's swimming in it. I think it's important to note that being too stingy with the Gelee could actually backfire, and I've had at least two people admit that they should have been more generous with their initial application.

"At this point, I lean over to one side and then the other, using my Conair shower comb to make sure every last tangle is out and my clumps are all laying right before I flip my head down and scrunch with a dry flour sack towel to set my curls. I think that last part is actually one of the most important methods I've learned to really form and set my curls well. Then once I have all of the excess moisture out, I plop into a different dry flour sack towel, and I leave it at least overnight, or as long as possible and as close to dry as I can get it. I almost always have damp roots when I unplop just because my hair is so long and thick, but I just gently pixiecurl until it's as close to completely dry as possible. If it's still damp when I'm leaving to go somewhere, I'll just leave it crunchy until I get to where I'm going, and then I scrunch out the crunch (yes, my Gelee has crunch!) once I get there. I've found that the longer you can wait until scrunching out the crunch, the better.

"Anyway, I think that's it. *lol* I know it sounds long and tedious, but you have to keep in mind that my hair is long and thick and thus I have special little things I have to do that others might get away with skipping. If this past year has taught me anything, it's that the method is just as important as the product you use!

"Thanks for the soapbox, Jillipoo, and I hope this helps a few curlies out there!"

*Sorry, folks -- no link to this because the ingredient list varies from region to region. I would hate to hook you up with the amodimethicone version so I'm afraid you'll have to find this one on your own!

Cold weather hair care, day six

2009-02-28T17:10:00.000-08:00

Kathymack is another role model at naturallycurly.com. We've witnessed her hair go from very nice to gorgeous over the past few months as she's discovered the benefits that natural products give her hair. Kathymack is primarily known for her interest in soap bars (she sells samples of them and other products, if you're interested) but she's also a great resource for information about all things curly.

Read how she copes with mid-Atlantic chill factors....

"Last August/September, I changed my routine over to natural products and added the natural soap bars (after six months of cowash.) My hair was very happy. I also cut out gel, because I didn’t seem to need it.

"Well, some of that routine had to change as a result of the cold weather. This is the first winter I’ve been a curly and not a wavy. In the past, I was a 3a during the summer and a 2-something during the winter. This year, though, I consistently get the tight curls you see here. It’s the product and technique that I’ve learned to use this past year, thanks to naturallycurly.com.

"My usual routine is to do a wash with a natural soap bar every three days. I always follow with an ACV rinse (to restore pH balance) and a rinse out conditioner. The other days I wet and do a rinse out. Because I need more moisture in the winter, I added the Aubrey Organics Island Naturals and GPB as rinse-outs in addition to Curl Junkie conditioners, Komaza Califa Conditioner and Karen’s Body Beautiful Hair Milk. I use varied products as my leave-in and curl crème.

"I frequently use things as stylers that are not marketed as stylers. I always use a leave in: Donna Marie Coco Curly Butter, Lock & Twist, Coco Hemp Buttercream, Curl Junkie Butta or Curl Assurance Leave-in, or the Komaza Califa line, to name a few. Curl crèmes include the three Donna Marie products, the varied Curl Junkie products, Kinky Curly Curling Custard, Aubrey Organics Mandarin Magic Jelly and the Komaza Califa line.

"Gel needed to come back into my routine. My curl was loosening and falling out. The Curl Junkie Aloe Fix Gel is magic -- I mix it with a few things, such as KCCC and AOMM. I’m also experimenting with the Curl Junkie Smoothing Gellie. I scrunch the water out with a Curls Like Us curl cloth, diffuse for five minutes and air-dry the rest of the way."

Cold weather hair care, day five

2009-02-26T19:58:00.001-08:00

It's time to feature a wavy in this series. I immediately thought of DEL2C at naturallycurly.com. Yes, she is a self-confessed product junkie, but she's also got sizzling hot hair. (And it turns out she has a very talented four-year-old, as well. That's who takes many of the photos of her hair. Not this one, though.)

DEL2C lives in the northern part of the northeast, so things get pretty cold in her neck of the woods. She has tried several coping strategies, but this is the one she's using lately.

"This winter has been a big challenge for me. I've been trying to find the balance with giving my hair adequate moisture. DevaCurl OneCondition has been fantastic! I wasn't getting the best results, but then I read on the threads about that "seaweed" feel we should get in the shower and that prompted me to be more generous with my conditioner. I use a good palm full whereas before I would use about a quarter size. Also adding a LI has helped tremendously. Lustrasilk Mango Shea or Lustrasilk Olive Oil as a leave-in has been great no matter what combination of products I choose. I use it as a leave-in and I've used it mixed with curl cream as well and have been getting fantastic results. It has just the right amount of moisture for my hair and doesn't weigh me down, I LOVE Lustrasilk. It's made all the difference for me this winter."

Cold weather hair care, day four

2009-02-25T20:29:00.000-08:00

Xcptnl (sound it out phonetically and you get "exceptional", which is what her hair is, if you ask me) is not only known at NaturallyCurly.com for her pretty hair but for her relentless experimentation with products. (Msgiblet and Xcptnl tie for honors in this regard.) I've always felt that Xcptnl may not realize just how wonderful her hair is, so because I am queen of this here blog, I am using this cyber-pulpit to show her off to the world!

Here is the story of how she gets these beautiful curls in horrifyingly low dew points.

"I feel like a celebrity!! How exciting to be part of Jillipoo’s blog!

"This winter was the first winter I had noticed issues of flyaways/frizzies -- whatever you want to call them. And it’s no wonder -- I don't think our dew points have been above 20 for weeks! For example, today the dew point is 2!

"I started paying attention to other curlies on Naturallycurly.com and their discussions of glycerin/honey (humectants) and their effects on hair in low dew points. To maintain some of my curls and get rid of those flyaways, I started avoiding or reducing glycerin and other humectants in products such as stylers and leave-ins that stay in my hair.

"Lately I have been using MOP C Curl Enhancing Shampoo* every two or three days. When I do not shampoo, I use Devacurl One Condition as a co-wash (or I just water-wash) and follow it with Giovanni 50/50 conditioner (glycerin is low on the list of ingredients), Avalon Organics Olive & Grape Seed conditioner, or Lustrasilk Shea Butter. I use Lustrasilk Shea Butter as a leave-in. This is put on VERY wet hair while I'm still in the shower and upside-down, after I have rinsed out my rinse-out conditioner upside down. I only use about a nickel-sized blob. My best stylers in these low dew points have been Kinky Curly Curling Custard or Boots Pink Curl Cream. When I use the Curling Custard, I mix it with Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee for good hold while my hair dries. When I use the Boots Pink Curl Cream, I emulsify it in my hand and scrunch into my ends. Both are added to very wet hair while I'm upside-down. When I use the Boots, I mix Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee with any other medium-hold gel that is glycerin-free. In these photos, I mixed it with Pantene Curl Defining Scrunching gel. As any reader of Naturallycurly.com knows, I am a certified product junkie so I am trying to use up these tubes of gel that are everywhere in my house!

I then flip right side up, get my part organized, and then scrunch out the water with my Curlease towel. I do this upside down first and then upright. Then I move on to diffusing with a deeper bowl attachment. I do this upside-down for about five minutes to get the products to set then I go upright. I spend some time on the ends with the deeper bowl attachment and then I move on to the diffuser that came with my blowdryer -- it's shallow and I can use it to get at the top of my head and the roots. I place it midway on my head and then move it up to get some volume at the roots, turn it on, and hold it there for a minute or so. I do this all around my head. I only dry my hair 50% dry with the hairdryer and then I let it air-dry the rest of the way. Once it's dry, I decrunchify with my Curlease towel. I have found by using the towel, my fingers, rings, and whatever do not get caught in my hair and create frizz. TA DA! Curls.

I cannot wait until the dew points go above 30 and I can start using all the products I bought containing glycerin, honey, and other humectants in them. It's very hard for me to ignore all those pretty bottles, tubes, and tubs but soon they will get their day in the rotation!

*This is sulfate-free, folks!

Cold weather hair care, day three

2009-02-24T20:55:00.000-08:00

What's cooler than a smart, sassy redhead? A curly, smart, sassy redhead! RedCelticCurls, whose blog Pittsburgh Curly offers up an assortment of curl-related observations, primarily of the scientific/geeky/insightful variety, has been inquiring and experimenting with her hair for years -- and it's paid off. She understands what ingredients work for her thick, coarse locks and stays away from the ones that have proven to disappoint her.

It's hard to argue with a mane this riveting, no? Here's what RedCelticCurls has to say about her cold-weather hair care.

"Last winter, my hair had few problems. It wasn't a very cold winter, and low dew points did not come into play that often. This winter is different. It's actually cold, and dew points have averaged from the teens to negative single digits. My curls had turned to waves. While that wasn't a bad look, I did want to find something that gave me my 'oomph' back.

"After some reading around, I decided to try the Lustrasilk Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus. It doesn't have anything that my finicky hair objects to, and for $2.49 for a 20 oz. tub, I couldn't complain about the price. Little did I know then that not every Sally's carried this product, and some were even obstinate about ordering it. I got lucky.

"I started out using this as a leave-in then reapplied as a curl cream. I have since tweaked it to using Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Curl Moisturizing Deep Treatment as leave-in followed by the Lustrasilk as a curl cream. I have been getting outstanding curl enhancement with this combo. If I use the Lustrasilk alone, I also get a big boost in volume. It's nice to have winter options now. I can forgo the Lustrasilk if I want waves (something I can't get in the summer) and hit the Lustrasilk if I want curls."

Nice to find effective options that don't cost a fortune! Lustrasilk seems to have worked for lots of people (unfortunately, I don't think the weather was cold enough here for Lustrasilk to have been much help to me). Although it's available at some Sally Beauty Supply stores, I recommend you buy it at Amazon to keep frustration to a minimum. (Also, get only the Shea Butter or Olive Oil versions if you are avoiding silicones.)

Cold weather hair care, day two

2009-02-24T07:20:00.000-08:00

Ever since I joined the discussion boards at naturallycurly.com back in the fall of 2007, I have been totally in love with msgiblet's hair. The color, the curl, the volume -- I am just enthralled with this hair of hers! And now you can see for yourself what makes my envy meter go haywire. So, I asked her what she uses in cold weather to preserve those awesome curls, and she was gracious enough to tell me. (Now all I have to figure out is how to get that amazing color!)

"I have been using Suave Tropical Coconut conditioner when I co-wash for quite a while now. I love how it makes my hair feel. There is none of that lousy coated feeling that I have found with a lot of the other Suave conditioners, plus it makes my hair feel clean and soft -- a lot better, in fact, than a lot of the more high-end, expensive conditioners. So, I started thinking that if a very cheap drugstore conditioner is making my hair so happy, why not a cheap drugstore gel to go with it?? Ah, the infinite wisdom! Now, I haven't had much success in the past with many drugstore products, but I know that some very wise curlies on NaturallyCurly.com have had great extended success with L.A. Looks Sport Gel. I had never tried this particular gel before so I thought what have I got to lose? Not a whole lot of money, that's for sure!

"After co-washing with the Suave Tropical Coconut conditioner and rinsing very well, I apply some more, massage through my hair and rinse out. Even though I have been on the hunt for some good winter conditioners, I have found that this conditioner seems to give me just the right amount of moisture. Go figure. If the weather is very dry, I mix a little dollop of the Suave with a little more than a quarter-sized amount of the L.A. Looks Sport Gel and gently rake through and then scrunch while upside down. I will apply 2-3 more globs of the Sports gel, scrunching firmly and thoroughly until I like how my hair feels, adding more gel if necessary. Then, using my Curls Like Us towel (I'm really loving this towel; it's the perfect size and design for scrunching), I scrunch out some excess moisture, then scrunch in a little more Sports Gel and plop in a Curlease towel for 10-15 minutes. After that, I diffuse for 10-15 minutes and let my hair continue to air dry. When completely dry, I gently scrunch out the crunch. What I really like about this combo is that yes, this gel does dry crunchy, but it's not the kind of crunch that makes you worry that if someone gets too close to you in the middle of air drying that your hair could literally impale them. No, it's a nice moist-looking crunchy; the kind of crunchy look that doesn't bother me to go out and about with before it's fully dry. Plus it's very easy to scrunch out and gives enough hold to keep my curls going even on the coldest days.

"So, it seems that my hair is just as happy with these oh-so-cheap drugstore products as with the hoity-toity, high-end expensive stuff. But am I going to give up the more expensive products and stick to the cheap stuff? Oh, hell no. There are times when a girl puts on the diamonds and heads off to the Kennedy Center, but then there are times when there's nothing more fun than going out to a good ol' cheap, rowdy, redneck bar."

Msgiblet -- ever the experimenter -- wrote me just before this post went live to tell me that dew points where she lives recently descended into the teens, and this combo was proving not quite effective enough. However, by using Mop Top Daily Conditioner as her rinse out, she's controlling the problem nicely.

What to use in cold weather

2009-02-23T20:32:00.000-08:00

A couple of months ago, I wrote about cold-weather hair care. I had a few product recommendations, but mostly I wrote in general terms about which ingredients to seek out and which to avoid.

But because I know that a lot of you don't want to be bothered reading labels and pretending to be a scientist, I'm going to make your life easier. I'm going to ask some other curlies to offer their suggestions about what products have worked for them!

I'll begin with myself, mostly because I am the easiest for me to contact.

I live in San Francisco, where dew points don't vary nearly as much as they do in other parts of the country (or the world, for that matter). Dew points here are in the 40s for most of the year, although in the winter there are probably a few weeks where they dip into the 30s. And at unpredictable times, there are days where the dew point creeps up over 50.

But last Christmas, I found myself in New England, where the dew point never went above 20. I was pretty frightened, I don't mind telling you -- I had no clue whether my theories about what would work for my hair would actually prove out. I packed Karen's Body Beautiful's Super Silky, which has no glycerin. I figured I'd use it as a curl creme.

Well, I used it that way and got some very pretty curls (see photo -- but know that the curls were prettier in person). But what amazed me even more was the way I could squeeze a bit into my palms, scrunch it into dry hair, and watch my hair perk up at midday when the dry air started to take its toll. I was very impressed with Super Silky and highly recommend it for cold weather!

But you know what? Not everybody's hair is the same. I know, it's shocking. So I thought it might be fun to ask some other curlies what they use when the dew point is the same as one's dress size. I turned to the fabulous Nikki, of Curly Nikki blog fame, who knows a thing or two about hair -- especially her own! Can you believe how gorgeous this woman's hair is?

"My go-to ingredient/product is Shea Butter, of course! I truly believe that this mystical butter has single-handedly saved my ends from splitting and breaking off during the harsh winter season. I style my hair twice a week (twist-n-curl) using rich water-based conditioners to moisturize (DevaCurl OneCondition + Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment), and Shea butter to seal the goodness in. I also touch up 2-3 day old hair with Shea- it de-frizzes and somehow moisturizes! I also like that the weight of it prevents extra shrinkiness. I hope to continue my love affair with Shea Butter well into the summer."

If you're wondering about quantities, Nikki uses a pea size amount, melts it between her palms and applies it to the ends of each curl with her fingers. She calls it, "tedious, but effective."

And so I'm closing with one more photo of her to-die-for locks. Just amazing.

Tune in tomorrow, when I will be posting yet another curly's secret product for cold-weather hair beauty...

Clump alert!

2009-02-21T22:41:00.000-08:00

I may have found a new love: Aubrey Organics Mandarin Magic Ginkgo Leaf & Ginseng Root Hair Moisturizing Jelly.

I had read that some curlies found this product comparable to Kinky-Curly Curling Custard. The ingredients didn't seem similar, though, so I doubted they would work the same way. Here's what's in the Mandarin Magic:

Water, Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Aloe Vera Gel, Tragacanth and Gum Arabic Blend, Ginkgo Leaf, Ginseng Root, Chinese Magnolia Blossoms, Chinese Angelica, Chrysanthemum, Earth Smoke, Morus Root, Mandarin Orange Peel, Aubrey's Preservative (Citrus Seed Extract, Vitamins A, C and E).

And although they are both gooey, KCCC is much thicker and gloppier. It also takes longer to dry. KCCC smells better but the AOMM hardly smells at all, which is also nice, especially if you'd like to wear cologne or perfume!

KCCC does give me boingier curls and it does deliver fabulous spirals. AOMM's curls are spirally but they look more natural, and my hair is far more touchable. Both products seem to keep frizz to a minimum.

I think I'm in love with both products and will use both, but I just had to share this new crush I have on the AOMM in case any of you are interested in trying something a little less dramatic than KCCC.

I have used Aubrey's B5 Design gel over KCCC as well as AOMM, and I really like the results. (I really want to thank michaput from the boards at naturallycurly.com for turning me on to both the B5 Design Gel and the EO Rose and Chamomille conditioner. I also want to thank kathymack for sending me a sample of the AOMM to help me decide whether I wanted to try it.)

Weird Product Wednesday: Jellies, Gelees, Gels, and Goo

2009-02-19T11:33:00.000-08:00

We curlies sure slap loads of slime in our hair.

And it's hardly ever called slime. It goes by a wide range of names:

- gel
- gelee
- gellie
- jelly
- goo
- custard
- pudding
- butter
- paste
- souffle
- cream
- creme
- meringue

(And I'm not even going to tackle the mousse, polish, pomade, gloss, serum, lotion, glaze monikers out there. Not to mention the milkshakes and elixirs and whatnot.)

Okay, cosmetic companies, we get it. These are all names for products that we can glop on our heads in some fashion. Obviously paste is going to be thicker than gel, so that sort of differentiation is helpful. But the difference between a gellie, a jelly, a custard, and a goo simply confounds me. Maybe it does to you, too?

Now, a gel we understand. It typically has some copolymers in it and it provides some hold. In fact, we use it almost exclusively for hold.

But this other stuff... It's a free-for-all of naming conventions! I used to think "gelee" meant it was a product from France. A "jelly" was going to be looser than a gel and probably not provide as much hold as a gel (I still believe this to be true, but your experience may differ). And goo, well, you're on your own with that one -- the name implies that it might be fun to play with but beyond that, who the hell knows?

And then we have the custards, puddings, meringue group, which is distinguishable from the gel, gelees, jellies, gellies, and perhaps the goo by its creamier quality. Some of these have copolymers and some don't, so the amount of hold they might provide is yet another crap shoot. Read the label and you might get a clue but chances are, your best way to know what the product does is to buy it and take your chances. Because for instance, Kinky Curly Curling Custard is not creamy, it's gunky. Miss Jessie's Curly Meringue, though, looks (and sort of feels) like it belongs in a pie.

Which slime do you reach for to keep your locks in prime condition? I confess to owning a wide assortment of all these crazy products, and depending on the weather, my mood, and the other products I might have applied that day, I'll reach for the concoction that offers some kind of balance to those variables. Sounds scientific, but in practice, it's as much an instinctive decision as an informed one. Do we need all these different products with their appetizing names? Probably not, but there's something deliciously fun about opening your medicine cabinet and having it look not so terribly different from your refrigerator.

Still, though, I'd like to see some standardization among product categories. Or maybe just call everything slime and distinguish its hold abilities by color. I don't know. What would you like to see?

Rate your soap bars

2009-02-17T23:14:00.000-08:00

An ingenious curly has started a review site for the various soap bars some people are using on their hair. Check out the Shampoo Bar Reviews Site to post a review or to help you decide on a bar or two to try for yourself.