Sunday, June 15, 2008

Today's hair

This is not the best my hair has ever looked, but it isn't too bad, and since Chris was home to take a few photos -- I suck at doing it myself -- I thought I'd post it.

This is the result of Activate conditioner, Shea Moisture Leave-in, Loma Imply curl creme, and Max Green Alchemy Styling gel. I didn't expect much, and really it actually *is* a little heavy but the curls are decent. We'll see how it holds up through the day.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Recent product discoveries


I've been mixing Paul Brown's Gelatine Goo into various other styling products this week and quite liking the results! Used alone, it's kind of like a gel but it doesn't really hold quite enough for my taste. But it does add a bit of volume, so I've been mixing it with some gels (Aveda Flax Seed Aloe, Condition & Sculpt, and Max Green Alchemy Scuplting) for the best of both worlds: definition and volume! It's an interesting product, especially since I didn't expect to like it at all (seemed like it would be too humectant-heavy, which is maybe why I like it best with other things).

And speaking of Condition & Sculpt, I really like this, too! It's one of those products that has a bit of an identity crisis, so you don't actually know the best way to use it. Some people at naturallycurly.com said they hated it because it left their hair stringy and lifeless. But somebody else said they use this under gel to good effect. So I used it under Biotera gel one day last week and loved the results! It's a good clumper -- I might turn to it when the magnesium sulfate in Rockin' Ringlets makes my hair frizzy (which is often). I can tell by the consistency of it that I probably wouldn't like it by itself. It seems to need something with it, so I'll experiment with some other stuff this week.

I've been having such great hair days lately! I really attribute it to the protein I've been making sure to incorporate into my daily hair routine. I'm also scrunching more. Maybe that helps too?

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Balancing act


If you read this blog, you know that I spend a lot of time on naturallycurly.com. I've learned so much there, I can't begin to recount it all. One thing I did not learn, however, was how to figure out what my hair needed and why that was important.

When you first arrive on that site, the protein-sensitive people are constantly talking about their protein sensitivity. Those who can't tolerate protein really do have some horror stories -- and horror photos! -- to prove what protein does to them.

The problem, though, is that when you're relatively new to the site, you get the distinct impression that protein is inherently bad.

I believed this for several months and kept my protein usage at a minimum. Meanwhile, my hair was getting less curly and flatter by the day. I even blamed the haircut I got in March for all my woes. And then I started using a conditioner that had absolutely no protein at all but was "light" (which I've come to discover means that it's primarily a humectant formula -- it pulls moisture from the air). My hair was frizzy and fairly lifeless. At the same time, another person with hair similar to mine, noticed the same thing when she used it. She then commented that she probably needed more protein.

And that's when it hit me. Protein isn't bad for everybody! And I was suddenly reminded of how often I would use a reconstructor (protein-heavy) back in the 90s and how it always made my hair happier. So, I set about using only conditioners with protein fairly high up on the list of ingredients. (I used Activate Hydrating conditioner but also a couple of Desert Essences types.)

Eureka! That did the trick. Suddenly my curls were back. I used to love Jessicurl Aloeba but now when I use it, I don't see the same kind of bounce and curl that the Activate gives me. I'm not saying I will stop using the Aloeba but I suspect I will use it much less often than I used to.

So my point here is not just to say that protein rocks (for me), but to urge anybody who is struggling with the Curly Girl method to do more than just avoid silicones and sulfates. Find out what balance of humectants, oil, and protein your hair likes.

This is not done quickly or easily because lots of other factors play a role. Climate, water, diet, stress level: these variables can complicate your experiments. But pay attention to ingredients (not just the impossible-to-spell ones) and see whether protein makes your hair happy. Discern whether humectants are always right for you. Learn what oil does to your hair.

You'll save a lot of money and time.

Most of all, though, don't let anybody tell you that protein is bad or that humectants suck or that oils don't do anything. Try them on your hair and come to your own decision.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Hair gods

I am always invoking the elusive, nameless, and faceless hair gods in many of my posts at naturallycurly.com. Well, one member -- Riot Crrl -- whipped up this little interpretation of what a hair god(dess) might look like. I love it! (Plus, I use all the products she's holding!) You can click on the image to see it even bigger....

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Water-soluble silicones

Although silicones with PEG in front of them are supposed to be water-soluble, I have not really trusted this promise because my experience with DevaCurl OneCondition seemed to leave me with some buildup. So, I've been avoiding all 'cones, including the ones with PEG before them.

But today, someone posted at naturallycurly.com that there is a difference in solubility among the PEG 'cones. Here is what the poster (who claims to have majored in chemistry in college) said:

As far as pegylated dimethicone - yes, some of them are water soluble. Anything with less than 4 is not at all. Anything 4-6 is very slightly water soluble. Anything 6-8 is moderately water soluble. 8-10 have good (but not great) solubility in water. 10+ are completely water soluble. the "PEG" part is polyethylene glycol - a very water-soluble side chain. The longer the side chain, the more willing these 'cones are to "work" with water. It's my understanding that things with fewer than 10 are prone to buildup without sulfates.

So, this gives me a little more confidence to at least look for higher numbers when considering a product with a PEG 'cone. Good info!

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Ingredient tidbit


Today I asked the Naturally Curly forum about Enjoy hair gel. As usual, I got some excellent information so I thought I'd share it here.

The ingredients are:
Water (Aqua). PVP, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Oleth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxymethlgylcinate, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, Benzophenone-4

According to laurabeth33 -- who tests products -- she says: "gels with triethanolamine (a pH alkalyne adjuster) as one of the first few ingredients can make hair more dry so a more acid leave-in underneath may encourage better (less drying) results."

I have asked her for examples of "acidic" leave-ins so I'll post that here when she responds.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Stearylkonium chloride

Yikes, this is pretty bad stuff. It's typically in the cheaper conditioners. I noticed in a vague kind of way that when I used VO5 Tea Therapy conditioner to co-wash (that means "conditioner wash", by the way) that my hair had a little of that pouffiness I remember from childhood or something. Didn't think too much about it -- knew that drugstore conditioners are sometimes cheap because they use more chemicals but I figured for co-washing, I didn't care that much.

Then somebody on NaturallyCurly.com mentioned that she noticed conditioners with stearylkonium chloride gave her pouffiness. Sure enough, I checked my VO5 bottle, and there is was -- and high up on the list, too. I checked all my other conditioners but they didn't have it.

Today, somebody posted something about it again and provided a link to this interesting list. Here's what it says about stearylkonium chloride:

A chemical used in hair conditioners and creams. Causes allergic reactions. Stearalkonium chloride was developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener, and is a lot cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins or herbals, which do help hair health. Toxic.

Fabric softener! Wow. I also realize, however, that this is one of those lists that contains items that, when used infrequently and in very small doses, cause little to no harm. Sort of an alarmist list designed to make you afraid of everything so you'll buy the natural products being promoted on that site. (Funny coming from me, Miss Organic/Natural/Unprocessed, but really, a person has to live in this modern world and I would rather use a product with a touch of preservative in it than risk an overgrowth of bacteria that would otherwise result.)

So, anyway, I think I'll continue to avoid this ingredient.