Knights of the aloe vera roundtable

Despite aloe vera's ubiquitous appearance in products, few of us know exactly how it works and why. Many believe that it is the supreme source of moisture for hair, yet for some people, aloe vera makes their hair "squeaky" and brittle.

Is it possible to get easy, straightforward answers regarding aloe vera? Doesn't seem so. Even the Wikipedia entry says: "Scientific evidence for the cosmetic and therapeutic effectiveness of Aloe vera is limited and when present is typically contradictory."

I thought it might be fun to assemble a group of informed people who work in the beauty business and get their opinions. We've got Marsha, the owner of Curl Junkie, who concocts her own products and was a stylist before that. She's got definite opinions about curly hair. Next, we have JC, whose blog I wrote about a few days ago. She is a curly-hair scientist in the UK who backs up her findings and determinations about hair by quoting from specific scientific studies. Jessica McGuinty, founder of Jessicurl, uses aloe in many of her product formulations, and as she stated in a recent interview, does a lot of testing of these products and how they perform. Tiffany Anderson-Taylor, aka StruttsWife on the NaturallyCurly.com discussion boards, has been a hair stylist in Florida for several years, and recently wrote a book about caring for curly hair. Her site, Live Curly Live Free, is a fantastic resource for people curious about curls' unique needs. And finally, we have Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetic formulator who is associated with one of my favorite blogs, The Beauty Brains as well as a site for cosmetic chemists called Chemists Corner. He's written a book titled Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, and he has been a senior project leader at Alberto Culver.

That's a lot of hairy brain power. And yet, opinions at this roundtable are as divergent as Elvis Costello's discography. See for yourself.

Jillipoo: I've heard aloe vera described as pure moisture, a humectant, a protein, and an astringent. How would you describe it?

Marsha: I would describe it as a moisturizer and I believe it has a small amount of amino acids in it, but not enough that I would call it a protein.

JC: I didn't realize just how popular aloe vera was until I received repeated requests for research about it. It does contain a whole bunch of stuff including sugars, calcium, iron, vitamins, proteins (enzymes) and aminoacids. You can read the full list here Br J Gen Pract. 1999 October; 49(447): 823–828. I think aloe vera defies description and is probably one of the substances to watch for the future. It is sort of important to say though that the gel is different from whole leaf extracts (as far as medicinal properties are concerned)

Jess: I also know it to be moisturizing, without being overly heavy or causing build up. In the testing during the production of my styling products, it the batches without aloe didn't seem to allow for the same softness to the hair once dried as the batches with it.

Tiffany: Because aloe vera contains enzymes that promote stimulation of the hair follicles, I tend to view it mainly as an astringent, although I feel it certainly has its place within the other categories as well.

Perry: Aloe vera is primarily a humectant made up of polysaccharides. It is formulated into hair care products to help support a marketing natural story and is not expected (nor has it been demonstrated) to provide a significant benefit for hair.

Jillipoo: Is it really moisturizing or does it merely simulate moisturizing? My hair curls quite a lot when I use it, which makes me think it's getting moisture, but how exactly does aloe vera work?

Marsha: This is completely non-scientific, but I've found that it works as a moisturizer in that it seems to form a film (although it's a very thin, not very stable film) that helps to keep moisture in the hair. I've read that Aloe has a small amount of amino acids in it and this could help explain its film forming qualities.

JC: Most research that I have seen refers most to skin and wound healing. One journal article which was reviewing aloe vera said that it 'seals in moisture due to its high water and mineral content' (Phytotherapy Research, pg 987-1010,2003). It has been used to keep wounds moist and also help break down callusses. I guess on hair it may be a source of water for the hair to keep drawing on? This is a monumental piece of guesswork I must warn you.

Jess: I've found it to be actually moisturizing, but of course in a totally different way than we might think of oils or conditioners being moisturizing. (ie: not creamy like a conditioner or oily like butters.) The humectant properties allow it to attract and retain moisture, as the other ladies have already said. :)

Tiffany: In its role as a humectant, it attracts moisture from the surrounding environment; additionally, since it is a coagulating agent, my thought is its thickened gel state forms a protective layer that helps to hold that existing moisture in. I don't know how much moisture it can actually generate in and of itself, however.

Perry: Aloe vera acts as a humectant. When it is applied it will help to draw moisture to your hair. It has a similar function to ingredients like Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. But it will only work when delivered from a leave-in product since it is water soluble and easily rinsed away when used in rinse-out hair products.

Jillipoo: What kind of hair is likely to benefit most from aloe vera? What kind is likely to not benefit at all?

Marsha: I think all hair types can benefit from Aloe vera, but specifically, fine hair, damaged hair, and dry hair, regardless of curl pattern. If your hair type is extremely protein sensitive, then you would likely see little benefit.

JC: I can't really answer this one scientifically as there is not much research on this subject. I definitely think it is hugely popular among the readers on my blog so my anectodal research would say it is good for the gorgeous super curly/kinky haired women whose locks are prone to dryness. I think many people are opting for natural products along with their natural curls so I think many will try it regardless of hair condition.

Jess: Since it's so light in texture and doesn't build up, any hair type can use it, as it won't weigh down fine hair. Some people are allergic to aloe, so obviously they shouldn't use it.

Tiffany: Anyone with moisture needs should most likely find aloe to be beneficial, although individuals with porosity issues should be careful, as any product ingredient with humectant properties can cause issues by forcing the hair shaft to "drink" moisture out of the atmosphere until it is bloated and swollen.

Perry: Aloe vera is actually an ingredient that cosmetic chemists refer to as a "claims" ingredient. It is not actually put in hair formulas at a level that would (even if it could) have any effect. The only effect that it has is to create a story for the product that consumers find compelling. The "work" of the formula such as moisturizing, cleansing, & conditioning is really done by ingredients that have less compelling names like 'dimethicone', 'cetrimonium chloride', and 'cocamidopropyl betaine'. But aloe vera is a humectant and may have some moisturizing effects when delivered from leave-in products. However, other ingredients are much more effective at a lower cost. From rinse-out products, aloe vera has no effect since it just gets rinsed away with all the other non-substantive ingredients.

Look no further for hair knowledge

Have you been trying to figure out what products to buy? Are you confused by how your hair behaves? Do you wish you had a little science on your side to get answers to your questions?

Tiffany Anderson (aka StruttsWife at naturallycurly.com) has written a book!

Tiffany has been dispensing information from NC.com for years and cutting curly hair for even longer than that. She understands that not all hair responds to the same products and she knows why. And now, with her book, you can understand it too.

This is a fantastic book -- I know because I had the honor of being one of the editors for it! It is without question the resource that so many of us have been crying out for.

It's called Live Curly, Live Free: Unlocking the Secrets Behind the World of Beautiful Curls and guess what? You can get your hands on it instantly because it's an e-book! Download it today. You will not be sorry.

The curl doctor is in!

Sometimes it feels like the beauty industry is intent on keeping us in the dark so that we'll keep blindly buying products, hoping for the one that delivers that long-awaited beauty. StruttsWife of naturallycurly.com (or Tiffany, creator of Live Curly, Live Free) has been one of the posters at the NaturallyCurly.com forums to provide real information -- the science behind the beauty. She's helped hundreds, maybe even thousands of us who frequent that site, to understand what hair is, how it reacts to things like weather and chemical treatments, and how to figure out what our hair wants. She is generous with her time and her knowledge, and I am personally eternally grateful for all that I've learned from her. And today, she is here to answer your questions. Well, actually, she answered my questions but you'll benefit from her answers too, I feel certain. I'm so jazzed that she agreed to this interview! (And no, the photo does not depict Tiffany. It is what I imagine a curl doctor to look like in Jillipoo Fantasyland.)

Tiffany, you've written a lot lately about texture and porosity (and only slightly less about elasticity and density). You've even started an excellent thread over at naturallycurly.com to help people get a handle on these concepts, so I will try to stay away from questions that'll just make you repeat what you've already said.

1. For porous or damaged hair, protein is often prescribed. But there seems to be a lot of confusion about different types and forms of protein. There's keratin, eggs, silk protein, reconstructors, and probably more that I don't even know about. Some are called "light" protein treatments while others are "intensive." What's the difference in terms of the effect on the hair? Is it true that some protein has molecules small enough to penetrate the hair and be more effective? If so, what kind of protein is that?

Your hair's condition and texture is a great baseline to determine how much protein you need. If you want to add protein simply because you have a fine texture and you need the extra support, a light protein treatment is fine. If, however, you have damage from sun, chlorine or chemical processes, a heavier protein recontruction will then be necessary for any real effectiveness.

Any protein that is animal-based or that has the prefix "hydrolyzed" in front of it is a stronger protein; those such as natural "wheat" or "soy" are the proteins that are lighter. "Keratin" is the natural protein from which your hair is made.

Proteins with smaller molecules are not necessarily more effective than those with larger molecules. While it's true smaller molecules can penetrate into the cortex--or inner layer of the hair--more easily, this really only becomes a consideration when you are effecting a chemical change in the hair, such as with color or texturizing. Proteins with larger molecules may take a slightly longer time to penetrate into the cortex, but they will be just as effective as those with smaller molecules once they get in there.

2. What do you think of clear or colored rinses such as Sebastian's Colourshines or Jazzings to help control porosity and preserve color treatments? Should they be used often or just after you color? How long do they last? Or would a protein treatment be just as good, or possibly better? Or are these products just another form of protein? Does lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar accomplish the same thing?

I love color glazes and use them often in my own color work. They add a beautiful dimension to permanent color: for example, in the winter, I apply a clear glaze over my dark espresso color which gives my hair enormous depth and shine; in warmer weather, I like to mix a bit of a burgundy cherry color with the clear for a more "summery" look. However, you can't always automatically assume a glaze will help to control porosity; quite the contrary.

Glazes are mainly semi- or demi-permanent color treatments with a clear or tinted result. They are different from permanent color in that they only stain the outside of the cuticle, whereas permanent color actually results in a chemical change inside the cortex. Glazes can help to prevent permanent color from fading since they add another level of "defense" on top of the hair shaft and normally last anywhere from six to 12 weeks, depending on the type of glaze used.

Unless there is some type of protein in the glaze, however, it will not help to reconstruct the hair in any way; and, frankly, I believe it is much more effective to apply a glaze, wait 24 hours, and then do a separate protein treatment. Lemon juice, citric acid, and vinegar are different in that their function is to shut down the cuticle, whereas protein treatments actually penetrate into the hair shaft and fill in any "holes" left in the cortex by damage or chemical processing.

3. It's clear that you are trying to teach people about the principles and characteristics of hair so that people can start to make connections between ingredient behavior and hair characteristics. (Using myself as an example, using glycerin on my porous hair is inviting more moisture into hair that already doesn't know when to stop drinking. So, I limit my glycerin use.) But people like quick and easy answers, so let's give them some quick fixes...

For example, if your hair is porous, what should you use?

Always, always base your product selections on your hair's texture and condition rather than on its porosity: protein-based for fine hair, humectant- and emollient-based for coarse hair (medium texture hair can usually support a wide range of product ingredients).

If your hair is not porous, however, you need to open up your cuticle before you apply your conditioner for it to be the most effective. Warm liquids and alkaline solutions (such as baking soda scrubs) are what open the hair shaft, so rinse your hair for a full minute with very warm water before you apply your conditioner. Then follow with a cool rinse to close the cuticle back down.

If your hair is porous, your hair shaft is already open, so you can apply your conditioner then follow with a cool rinse to help shut the cuticle back down. Any product that is "pH-balanced" or "acid-balanced" will also help to keep your cuticle shut; ACV or lemon juice rinses are also a good idea in moderation, provided you remember these are acids and can damage your hair further if not used wisely.

Coarse hair can feel smoother if you use:
... anything with a healthy humectant or emollient base, and a lot of it. Coarse hair has so much protein in it naturally, applying any product with protein on top of it can spell disaster--resulting in a strawlike, wicked dry mess. And I find a very common problem among my coarse-haired clients is that they have a tendency to skimp on product. Coarse hair needs to be saturated, and saturated often, with very moisturizing ingredients to keep dryness at bay.

4. In your opinion, what's the biggest curly hair ripoff on the market today? (Can be a product or a philosophy or both)

That your wave pattern has anything to do with how you should care for your curly hair. It makes me crazy to see people buy into the philosophy of "my hair is classified as spiral ringlets, therefore I should use products X and Y in my maintenance routine." That is so misleading!

It is your hair properties that help you to determine how to care for your curly hair properly. That's basic trichology, good hair science, and it holds up against any of those so-called "curl classification" systems.

5. What do you think of deep treatments? Are they necessary for all hair types? Is there ever a point at which they are no longer necessary? What about those new, expensive steam treatments for hair?

Deep treatments can be a great part of your maintenance routine, depending on your hair's individual needs. Because I color, I do a deep treatment twice per month--once 24 hours after I color, another at the midway point between colorings (at about three weeks), which helps to keep my hair healthy and in great shape. If you do any kind of a chemical process, a monthly or bi-monthly deep treatment can be a good idea.

People with fine hair, however, should be extremely careful since their hair typically needs more protein, not more moisturizers. I seldom recommend routine deep treatments for any of my fine-haired clients, unless it's an initial series of treatments because she is severely dehydrated. An "as needed" protein pack is usually far more effective here.

I don't think there is a point deep treatments are no longer necessary for most people, but I believe there can come a time where they no longer need to be routine. If you don't chemically process and if your hair is healthy, you can do a deep treatment at arbitrary times just when you feel a little extra moisture is needed--such as if the weather becomes extremely dry, if you've been sick, etc.

The jury is still out on those steam treatments; frankly, I've yet to see where paying $$$ at a salon is more effective than what you can do for yourself at home. Boil a pot of water, remove it from the heat, lean over the pot and hold a towel over your conditioner-saturated head to capture the steam for 5-10 minutes--you'll steam your hair and give yourself a great facial at the same time (throw some mint or rosemary leaves in there for a little aromatherapy while you're at it!).

6. Closing the cuticle has come up recently as an important step in preserving color treated hair. Acidic products help do this, and several curlies were conjecturing about the good effects of vinegar rinses, citric acid, and acidifying products. What is an acidifying product? Aside from looking for products that are labeled "for color-treated hair," how can a curly spot such an item on a store shelf? What ingredients might an interested curly look for?

Closing the cuticle is definitely important, not only for preserving hair color, but for the overall health of hair in general!

An acidifying product is one that lowers the pH of the hair and brings it back into an appropriately balanced range. Just because a product is labeled "for color-treated hair", however, does not necessarily mean it is acidifying. Look for citric acid (organic) or phosphoric acid (inorganic) on the product label as an indication acidifying product ingredients have been included in the formulation. Conversely, be cautious with products that include TEA (Triethanolamine) or DEA (Diethanolamine), which are both alkalizing agents and will raise the pH of the product.

You can also "balance" your own conditioner by adding a small drop of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice for each tablespoon of conditioner (do not premix, as the solution can go rancid even if the product already contains preservatives). Don't go overboard---you want to lower the pH of the product to an appropriate range, not make it so acidic that it begins to dry the hair shaft.

Thank you so much, Tiffany! It's been fabulous having you here today (even if you don't look like that guy with the stethoscope).